WINE:Here's a lesson in the three 'P's - place people and passion, by an Irish wine writer who did the brave thing and moved to the heart of France It is as if this special 'terroir' translates in the glass into a symphony of taste, writes Jacinta Delahaye
SIPPING OUR wine with a patchwork quilt of vines spread out beneath us, we were conscious, for a moment, of being brought to a place where sensory perception rather than words embraced our minds. Living in the Languedoc for the past four years, observing the vines on a seasonal basis and chatting with the men and women who tend them, has reinforced my belief that beyond the grape, farming and wine-making, it is the three Ps - people, place and passion - that cause some wines to imprint an indelible mark on our senses.
Place
Take "Place", for example, and a wine called Domaine des Pradels. Owned by the Quartironi, this small family business is uniquely located in a small hamlet called "Le Priou". To locate this idyll, one has to leave the main road leading through the town of St Chinian and drive upward on a narrow road that cuts through complex schist soils and wild scrubland known as garrigues. The patient driver is rewarded with stunning views and a tiny hamlet consisting of no more than a dozen houses. Large time-smoothed stones on house entrances are witness to the workers who, over the centuries, sharpened knives entering and leaving the buildings that served both as working and culinary tools. A treasure of knowledge has been passed down through the generations of this family who work the schist soils planted with old Carignan, Grenache and Syrah vines.
As a sensual tribute to this intriguing place, try Domaine des Pradels "aux vieux gobelets". The wine's name is inspired by the training system used to prune the vines. It's a medium-bodied approachable wine, with aromas of pure white pepper giving way to a savoury fruitiness that is both assertive and ripe. The finish is medium long with a characteristic spicy bite.
Domaine des Pradels "aux vieux gobelets" 2005, St Chinian, 12.5%, €12.99.
Stockists: McHughs's, Artane and Kilbarrack, Dublin; Martin's, Fairview, Dublin; Red Island Wines, Skerries, Co Dublin; The Hole in the Wall, Blackhorse Ave, Dublin; Nectar Wines, Sandyford, Dublin; Holland's, Bray, Co Wicklow; Morton's, Galway; Daly's, Boyle, Co Roscommon; The Foodhall, Portlaoise, Co Laois; O'Neills, Carrickmacross, Co Louth; Madden's, Bundoran, Co Donegal; Cabot Source, Westport, Co Mayo.
The "People" element of the three Ps are Graham and Béatrice Nutter, owners of Château Saint-Jacques d'Albas, located in the Livinière region of Minervois. It is a rugged region with a grandiose landscape and one can easily understand how they fell in love with it.
Dating back to his college days, Graham always had a love of things vinous. He remembers spending a memorable day in Château Figeac, in St Émilion, which gave him a profound insight into the whole subject. The experience marked him for life and he knew that one day he would attain this lifestyle.
Roll on the years, 30 to be precise. Add lots of hard work and keeping the goal in sight, and eventually he had the means to make his dream a reality. He idealised about Bordeaux while Béatrice pointed south, preferring the mentality, warmer climate and abundance of locally grown vegetables and fruits. Many months and winery visits later, they came across a tree-lined avenue leading to Château St Jacques and it was love at first sight. The property dates back to Roman times but previous owners limited the activity to selling the grapes to the local Cave co-operative.
Everything was in disarray. The whole place, from winery to vineyard, required re-vamping. This has taken years and is still ongoing, with huge investments in the vineyards and the winery. The result is a magnificent Domaine, true to its southern French origins, with 27 of the 75 hectares under vine. Everything has been done with love and attention and the wines have gained international attention and acclaim. Wine tourism is actively encouraged and supported through classical concerts, wine-tasting events, seminars and meals from local produce. There are delightful picnic tables conveniently positioned throughout the property, so one can fully enjoy a glass of wine.
What emerges when tasting the red wines of Château St Jacques d'Albas are heady aromas of nutmeg, black pepper, thyme and olives. With bottle age, the wines assume more complex notes reminiscent of dates and prunes. It is as if this special "terroir" translates in the glass into a symphony of taste.
Domaine Saint Jacques 2005, Minervois, 13.5%, €12.99.
Stockists: Donnybrook Fair, Donnybrook and Kimmage Cross Roads, Baggot Street, Dublin and Bray, Co Wicklow; Egan's Off-Licence, Portlaoise, Co Laois; Redmond's of Ranelagh, Dublin; Roundwood Food & Wine, Wicklow;
The Thirsty Monk, Wexford; Next Door, Kilcoole, Co Wicklow.
Passion
Laurent Miquel and his father's initial passion for Syrah automatically led them to develop an intense interest in the Viognier grape. They first had the idea of planting the variety in 1992. Against local bureaucracy and traditions, they instinctively knew a quality wine could be produced that offered something very different from Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. At that time the variety was little known outside of Condrieu in the northern Rhône. Laurent's first vintage was in 1995 and he found the challenge of this sensitive grape exciting and thought provoking. Initial results were rewarding and created a great buzz in the winery. Small experimental plots were established for running pruning trials to achieve better balance.
The learning curve began in earnest, and he became confident and driven to produce his own particular wine with the influence of his native Languedoc soils. Since those early years, the tiny holding of two-and-a-half hectares has extended to more than 40.
His finest expression of the style is Viognier "Verité" (restaurants only), produced only in top vintages. His aim with the more available Nord/Sud style is to produce a fresh, lively wine with a "nervy" citrus quality that gives pleasure in the glass. Emphasis is on freshness with just a "dash" of oak to add depth. With new ideas and a more modern outlook, young vignerons such as Laurent are influencing change both in the vineyard and winery leading to an even brighter wine future.
Laurent Miquel Nord/Sud Viognier 2007, Vin de Pays d'Oc, 13.5%, €10.49.
Stockist: Dunnes Stores
For Jacinta, Thierry and Tristan Delahaye's highly recommended accommodation in the Languedoc, see www.haciendadesroucans.com. For tourist info see www.herault-tourism.com
John Wilson's column returns next week