Paul Flynn: An Italian feast packed with flavour

Myself and a friend of, gulp, 50 years, went to Italy recently for a few nights. Crocker rang me to say he could get return flights to Bergamo for a tenner each. He, like myself, has a built-in travel bug. We spend a lot of time talking about past and future travels.

The fact I wanted to bring a bag on board was a bone of contention, as in his view it pushed the price up unnecessarily. A man only needs fresh jocks and a toothbrush to go on a short European escapade, he said. No need to be encumbered with luggage – that’s beer money – he said, as he tried to appeal to my base instincts.

There was an interminable pause on the phone as he waited for me to change my mind, but I stood my ground. I need options, I said. We are going to Milan, after all. I can’t go shlepping round looking like a goat herd. Me and my metrosexual ways.

I’m a bit of a restaurant list obsessive when it comes to a trip. I spend hours googling to find gastronomic nirvana, but it doesn’t always work. This time though, we struck gold. After an anxious 20-minute walk from the Duomo, we entered my perfect Italian trattoria. We were the only tourists. The place buzzed with local families and businessmen. I can’t tell you how relieved I was.

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Vino della casa was called for. I beamed as a jug was placed in front of me. The staff were patient with our lumbering Italian. We ordered vitello tonnato, cacio e pepe, polpette and ossobuco. I didn’t want to leave, so I ordered the most perfect tiramisu in an opulent little glass. The whole trip was worth this lunch alone.

It was a great weekend, but in retrospect, I think I packed too much.

This week, I’m making an Italian feast. It’s all based around tigelle, this soft spongy bread from Emilia-Romagna. Think Italian muffins that are opened, then stuffed with all the goodies. You don’t have to make everything, of course – the tigelle alone would suffice – but beware, they will make you crave your very own jug of wine.

Recipe: Tigelle, mostarda grapes, burrata and salumi

Recipe: Soft polenta, asparagus and maple gremolata

Recipe: Artichoke balsamico al forno