Improperly good hake with smashed new spuds

I was so delighted to see buckets full of new potatoes at the market last week. There’s nothing like a new spud. I am getting married at the end of the summer but I might need some dress refittings at the rate I’m eating these gorgeous potatoes.

Recently I have discovered Improper Butter, a young Irish company producing tasty flavoured butter. Its catchy slogan, "butter just got better", was on a loop in my head when I slathered the sun-dried tomato and basil butter on new potatoes for dinner. It's such a simple idea but it works.

I love Cuinneog cultured farmhouse butter and Glenilen farm and Abernethy Butter do such gorgeous rolls wrapped in paper. I’m yet to find an Irish producer that makes butter with large crunchy flakes of sea salt like the French Breton Butter, however. It’s pure indulgence.

This recipe for smashed potatoes is ideal for using up leftover spuds. I usually cook a big pot, then make a salad or this dish with the leftovers. They are like delicious little roast potatoes all crushed together. Just roast in a really hot oven and dinner will be on the table within half an hour.

Courgettes are also now in season. I’m told this summer there will be a bumper crop due to the fantastic weather. I love making all types of courgetti spaghetti, noodles, grated courgette salads and stir fries with it.

This warm salad is so delicious with the pop of fresh mint and lemon zest. It’s surprisingly good cold, too.

Make sure the courgette doesn’t get too mushy when cooking; it’s best when it still retains some bite.

I’ve made a really simple gratin here and it tastes amazing with the crisp Gubbeen cheese crumbs. Any meaty fish will do here: cod, pollock or even monkfish.

This is an easy way to cook fish. Just ask your fishmonger to skin the fish and portion it up for you. However, it’s worth having a good flexible filleting knife for skinning your own at home.

I’ve used tomatoes on the base of the dish, but spinach leaves, finely chopped leeks or sliced fennel would be delicious too.

• This column is moving to Wednesdays starting July 13th

HAKE GRATIN: SERVES 4

The ingredients 
1kg small new potatoes, steamed or boiled already (leftovers are perfect)
80g breadcrumbs
100g Gubbeen cheese, rind removed and roughly grated
600g hake fillet, skin removed and cut into four portions
2 large tomatoes
50g butter
180g frozen peas
1 medium courgette, cut into thick slices, quartered
Zest of half a lemon
1tsp lemon juice
Handful of fresh mint, leaves picked
Olive oil
Salt
Black pepper

Method
Preheat the oven to 200 degrees.

Drizzle a large roasting tin with oil. If your potatoes aren’t already cooked, steam or boil them until just done. Drain them, then place them in the roasting tin and use a potato masher or wooden spoon to gently crush them down, just breaking the skin. Drizzle with a little more oil, sprinkle with salt, and roast for 25 minutes or until crisp and golden.

Meanwhile, mix the breadcrumbs and cheese together with some black pepper. Cut the tomatoes into thick round slices. Lay them on the bottom of an oven-proof baking dish. Lay the fish on top and finally add a blanket of breadcrumbs. Dot with the butter and bake for 20-25 minutes or until the fish is opaque and the crumbs golden.

While the fish cooks, melt a little butter in a pan and stir-fry the courgette until it takes on some colour but still retains some bite. Add the peas and stir until just cooked. Finally add the lemon juice and zest, and season well with plenty of pepper and a little salt. Add the mint leaves just before serving.

Divide the hake gratin with the tomatoes, the smashed crispy potatoes and the minty courgettes between four plates.