Matches made in vineyards

Classic dishes from around Europe, and the wines to drink along with them, writes JOHN WILSON

ONE OF THE great pleasures of visiting any wine region is trying out the local cuisine. Usually it is very good, if basic. The pleasure comes from trying out something new, or familiar ingredients cooked very differently. In most cases the food provides a great accompaniment to the local wines.

Beef and Malbec in Argentina, lamb cutlets and Rioja, roast lamb and Bordeaux, and so on. It doesn’t always work. Good red Burgundy goes very well with game, beef and chicken, but many producers serve their very finest wine at the end of the meal, with the wonderfully stinky local cheese Époisse, which is a great cheese but a certain wine-killer. This aside, this synergy is hardly surprising, given that the natives have spent centuries eating and drinking the local produce, and have had plenty of time to work out what works best.

Oysters

True, there are no oysters produced within 1,000km of Chablis, but this is a classic combination that you will find both in the region and elsewhere. It works beautifully. The crisp, citrus notes of the Chablis provide a perfect contrast to the briney softness of an oyster. A more regional match would be Muscadet, which provides the same lemon tang to go with all kinds of seafood.

Sadly, it is hard to find a good Muscadet in Ireland. Another personal favourite is Champagne. A Chablis 1er cru would be perfect, but if you are on a budget, I would suggest the Begude Chardonnay.

Domaine de Begude 'Le Bel Ange' Chardonnay 2010 IGP Pays d'Oc, 12.5% (€10.99, down to €7.99 from now until Christmas)From the cooler hillsides around Limoux in the Languedoc, a lovely vibrant crisp, dry white, with elegant green apple fruits and a lovely dash of citrus. Stockist: Superquinn

Coq au Vin

Coq au Vin is a Burgundian classic. It is sometimes argued that you need a bottle of Chambertin for the dish and one for the table, but these days even one bottle is outrageously expensive. But do try to choose a decent red for the bird. When used in large quantity, it makes a real difference.

To drink with it, a nice meaty Côte de Nuits or possibly a New World Pinot would be good, Chile for the budget conscious, Central Otago if you are splashing out. Chicken of all kinds works well with Burgundy, but in the winter months I find a gently stewed fowl is very satisfying.

Bourgogne Rouge 2009, Domaine Pauget, 13.5%, €19.95I came across this very recently at a tasting. It doesn't cost the earth (in Burgundian terms), but has all of the attributes you look for; soft ripe cherry fruits, a smidgen of spice, and a long cool dry finish. Perfect with chicken of all sorts, but your coq au vin definitely deserves something as good as this. Stockists: On the Grapevine, Dalkey; Cabot Co, Wesport

Cocido (and bollito misto, pot au feu)

In these cold winter months, there are few things more comforting than a big bowl of warming stew. In Spain they have cocido, in France pot au feu (and cassoulet), Italy has bollito misto. Just about every country has a big peasant dish traditionally made with a small quantity of meat bulked out with a generous amount of vegetables and beans to provide sustenance.

In order to match the robust flavours, you need something fairly big, and preferably a little rustic. The red wines of southwest France (Cahors, Madiran) are a good choice. For something Spanish, head south to Jumilla, Yecla and Valencia for something satisfyingly vigorous and gutsy.

El Bon Homme Siente 2010 Valencia, 14%, €12.50Made from a blend of the local Monastrell (Mourvèdre) and Cabernet Sauvignon, this is a big, rich, warming wine, with plenty of body and tannin. I tried it with stewed beef cheeks (superb) and a roast of pork the following day. The wine worked well with both, and improved with a little aeration, too. Stockists: Ennis's, South Circular Road; Lilac Wines, Fairview; 64 Wine, Glasthule; Dunne's, Donnybrook; Sweeney's, Glasnevin; The Wine Boutique, Ringsend; Liston's, Camden Street; Lilliput Stores, Stoneybatter; Bin No9, Clonskeagh; Red Island, Skerries; La Touche, Greystones; Deveney's, Rathmines; Power Smullen, Lucan

Bistecca alla Fiorentina

My daughter is not too keen on my cooking rabbit, so I have been unable to try out that classic Tuscan dish of papparadelle con la leper. However, Bistecca is another regional speciality, a very large T-bone steak. In Tuscany they favour the Chianina breed, considered one of the finest in the world. We have very good steak here, too; just make sure it is well hung, and cut very thick. You grill it, preferably on charcoal, and serve it rare, cut into chunks or slices, possibly with a dribble of high quality extra-virgin olive oil from Tuscany (the 2011 vintage is arriving now). Why does it work so well? The firm acidity and tannic dryness of the Sangiovese grape provides the perfect cut to the rare meat, and also has sufficient body to match the powerful flavours.

Anima Umbra 2007, Arnaldo Caprai, IGT Umbria, 14%, €13.99I am cheating a little here, as the Anima Umbra comes from Umbria, just south of the greater Chianti region. However, this region has been producing some inspired wines over the past decade, led by Arnaldo Caprai. This blend of Sangiovese and the local Caniolo is bigger than many Chianti, but it really delivers at a price. Rich but piquant, meaty dark fruits, with plenty of structure. Stockists: 64 Wine, Glasthule; Sweeney's; Glasnevin; Lilac Wines, Fairview; The Wicklow Wine Co; Thomas's, Foxrock; Lilliput Stores, Stoneybatter; Liston's, Camden Street; The Wine Boutique, Ringsend