A little zeal from the new wine world

Looking for the Montana wine label? It has been renamed BrancottEstate, writes JOHN WILSON

THINGS TEND TO change much quicker in the New World, and history is frequently shorter. Whereas many European wines claim an ancestry going back hundreds, and sometimes thousands of years, in the New World, a wine’s history is often measured in decades rather than centuries. Marlborough is a case in point. Up until the mid-1970s, this flat riverbed was populated largely by sheep grazing on the infertile pebbly soils. Any action in the New Zealand wine business, and there wasn’t a huge amount, took place on the North Island, either around Auckland, the historic centre of viticulture, or along the east coast.

The man credited with the discovery of Marlborough is Frank Yukich. He was the son of a Dalmatian immigrant, one of many who settled in New Zealand and were responsible for much of country’s wine business. By all accounts, Yukich was an intelligent, driven businessman who took over Montana, founded by his father. The company thrived under his leadership, eventually being listed on the New Zealand Stock Exchange. Alerted to the potential of Marlborough as a wine region by a young scientist, he secretly bought up 1,600 hectares of land from a number of sheep farmers without informing his board of directors. They accepted his plan with reluctance. The first vine was planted in Marlborough in August 1973, and the first wine made in 1976. Within 20 years, Marlborough had become the largest and most-sought after name in New Zealand, renowned for its distinctive style of aromatic, expressive Sauvignon Blanc.

Marlborough lies at the eastern tip of the South Island, protected, like most New Zealand vineyards, from the rain, which falls mainly on the western coast. The frequent winds help keep diseases at bay and there are major moves towards organic, and even biodynamic viticulture. The key to Marlborough Sauvignon is the long growing season. The warm, dry autumn weather brings a succession of bright sunny days and cool night-time temperatures, giving the wines a delicious combination of ripe fruit and piercing fresh citrus acidity.

The first Montana vineyards were largely made up of one single large block, known as Brancott. This remains the bedrock of all its best wines, and the company has renamed its wines in honour of this historic vineyard. Other producers followed in Montana’s footsteps to Marlborough. But it was an Australian, David Hohnen, who was responsible for the next explosion on the wine world. A co-owner of the Cape Mentelle winery in Western Australia, he was hugely impressed by the Marlborough Sauvignons he tasted. In 1985 he set up a new winery and hired winemaker Kevin Judd. The first wine, his 1985 Sauvignon, put Cloudy Bay and Marlborough Sauvignon on the world map. Judd, who also has a passion for photography and has published a wonderful book of wine photographs, moved on from Cloudy Bay and now has his own operation, Greywacke. The first releases are impressive in style, very different to Cloudy Bay, but still very expressive of the region.

In recent years, the huge increase in production has lead to a glut of wine. Prices, once the envy of the wine world, have fallen, and some producers have gone to the wall. However, it does mean that we can now all afford to buy one of the world’s classic wines at a very reasonable price.

WINES OF THE WEEK

Brancott Estate Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough 2010, 13%, €12.95As Irish Timesreaders who attended the recent tasting will know, the original Marlborough Sauvignon, now under the Brancott Estate label, is drinking beautifully. The 2010 is clean and fresh with classic gooseberry, kiwi and lime zest fruits, with a nicely rounded finish. Stockists: Widely available

Greywacke Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Marlborough, 13.7%, €19.99From the former winemaker at Cloudy Bay, an excellent first vintage. Rich and full, with layers of ripe tropical fruits, nicely balanced by plenty of classic Marlborough acidity and a lingering finish. An impressive wine. Stockists: On the Grapevine, Dalkey; thewineshop.ie; Celtic Whiskey Shop, Corkscrew, Fallon Byrne, all Dublin 2: Donnybrook Fair, Dublin 4; Jus De Vine, Portmarnock; The Drink Store, Stoneybatter; Cellar Master, Sandyford Business Park; and Mitchell Son, CHQ and Glasthule

Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough 2010, 13.5%, €27.50-28I have found Cloudy Bay, the icon wine of New Zealand, disappointing over the past few years. However, it appears to have returned to form in 2010. This has fresh, racy, intense but subtle green fruits, lovely clean citrus acidity and very good dry length. Stockists: Jus de Vin, Portmarnock; Donnybrook Fair; O'Briens; Tesco; and many other off-licences

Yealands Estate Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough 2010, 13.3%, €16.99From one of the cooler parts of Marlborough, this has lifted tropical fruits, and plenty of crisp refreshing lime, with a lightly mineral streak peeking through. Stockists: Mitchell Son, CHQ and Sandycove; Fallon Byrne, Dublin 2; The Drink Store, Stoneybatter; Cellar Master, Sandyford Business Park; Mortons, Ranelagh; On The Grapevine, Dalkey; Red Nose Wine, Clonmel; Kellers, Nenagh and Roscrea; JM Vintners, Andersons and Jus de Vine, Portmarnock

TWO UNDER €12

Ara Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough 2008, 13%, €9.99Surprisingly good given its age, with very attractive, soft ripe greengage fruits and a tangy grapefruit freshness. Rounded and easy, with plenty of fruit. Stockists: O'Briens

Hunky Dory Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Marlborough, 13%, €11.75Fresh, rounded, green apple and soft fruits with lovely zippy acidity. Medium-bodied with good intensity, this is classic Marlborough Sauvignon. A good all-rounder to drink as an aperitif, with salads or goats' cheese. Stockists: Widely available in independent off-licences

The winner of the Christmas wine quiz, and a 12-bottle gift case from winesdirect.ie, is Michael Lawlor from Portmarnock, Co Dublin. The answers are as follows.

1. Syrah, Grenache, Cinsault, Mourvèdre, Counoise, Terret Noir, Vaccarèse (Camarèse), Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Bourboulenc, Picpoul Noir, Roussanne, Picardin, Muscardin 2. Nine litres 3. A sherry 4. Clare Valley, South Australia 5. Austria 6. 225 litres 7. Ciaran Rooney 8. Santa Rita 9. Calvi 10. Sangiovese, known locally as Prugnolo Gentile 11. Napa Valley, California 12. JM Keynes 13. A deadly aphid that attacks vines 14. Pétrus is the only property situated on the right bank of Bordeaux; the others were all classified as First Growths in 1855. 15. Rioja Gran reserva must be aged at least two years in oak casks, and at least three years in bottle before release. 16. Côt Noir, Auxerrois and Pressac 17. Bordeaux 18. Pinot Noir and Cinsault 19. Either red or white. The verde "green" describes its fresh style 20. The Mosel 21. Sir Alexander Fleming 22. A lagar is a large granite trough traditionally used in the Douro Valley in Portugal to crush grapes underfoot 23. Cannonau is the Sardinian name for the Grenache (Garnacha) grape variety. 24. A region within Cognac. 25. Western Australia