A little ruddy warmth

January might be a time for cutting back, but these cheap reds will make sure no dinner goes uncomplemented, writes JOHN WILSON

AT TIMES, I have very plebeian tastes. At trade tastings, I frequently find myself preferring less the expensive versions of a producer’s wines. Too much oak, over-extracted flavours and too much tannin can make for very unpleasant drinking. They may possibly taste better a few years later, but that is not always the case.

At this time if year, we are all trying to cut back on expenditure and wine is often the first in line. But I would argue that a glass of simple red is an important component of an everyday dinner. After a bad day at the office, it is often essential. I try (not very successfully) to avoid wine for three days of the week, and open a decent bottle on either Friday or Saturday night. That leaves three days to enjoy a glass or two of easy-drinking red that doesn’t require too much thought, but will make the food taste so much better.

Two countries that offer great value red wines are Spain and Chile. I have probably been a little unfair to Chile over the last year; the country does produce some real bargains, red wines in particular. However, there is plenty of dross around too, really confected wines with harsh acidity, clumsy oak, and sometimes too much alcohol. The best value is at the mid-level price, between €8-12. Under that price and you take your life in your hands, and once you go over €15, many of the reds are blockbusters with too much of everything except balance. But mid-price Chilean Merlot and Cabernet can compete in terms of value with any other wine region.

Spain offers a huge range at entry-level and just above. I go for the more northern regions as they have a great elegance. Navarra and Rioja are the two best-known names, but Bierzo, Somontano and the Penedes can be every bit as good. Prices are falling in Spain, so the quality/price ratio looks set to continue.

I include one wine from Sicily. The largest wine region of Italy, Sicily, like Chile and Spain, has the advantage of volume. The island produces masses of red wine, some of it a little too earthy, but in recent years quality has improved greatly. Look out for the local grape varieties that can produce robust, warming reds.

Acón Abadia de Acón, Ribera del Duero Joven 2009, 12.5%, €10.95-11.50The best producers in Ribera del Duero can ask for and receive fairly steep prices. The cheaper wines, when available, tend to be rough, sometimes very acidic, and often with clumsy oak flavours. However, this wine offers some genuine Ribera flavours at an unbelievably cheap price. It has really good elegant, plum fruits, lovely balance and a clean finish. It slipped down perfectly with grilled chicken, and as an after-dinner glass. Stockists: Just de vine, Portmarnock; Bin No. 9, Goatstown; Power Smullen, Lucan; Michael's Food Wine, Mount Merrion; Ennis's, South Circular Road; Lilliput Stores, Arbour Hill; The Wine Boutique, Ringsend; Dunne's Butchers, Donnybrook; Lilac Wines, Fairview; 64wine, Glasthule; Red Island, Skerries

Egiarte Lezuan 2009, Navarra, 13.5%, €8.95Made from a blend of Tempranillo and Merlot, this has bright, clean plum and dark cherry fruits, with light tannins and a lovely freshness. It is good enough to buy by the case for everyday drinking. Stockist: Terroirs, Donnybrook, terroirs.ie

Rio Alto Classic Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, Aconcagua Valley, Chile, 13.5%, €8.99This is a very good example of what Chile does so well; a well-made, easy-drinking red at a great price. Smooth, easy cassis fruits, very decent concentration, ripe but not sweet and a seamless finish. An all-purpose wine for those Sunday night blues. Stockist: Supervalu

Concha y Toro Casillero del Diablo Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, Central Valley, Chile, 13.5%, €10.89Concha y Toro is one of the giants of Chilean winemaking, but it produces some very good-value wines. This Cabernet is a little oakier than the Rio Alto above, but it delivers a nice mouthful of broad, ripe red fruits, some spicy notes, and a tannin-free finish. Again, a good all-rounder to serve with most meat and cheese dishes. Stockist: Supervalu

Arancio Nero d'Avola 2009, IGT Sicilia, 13.5%, €11.95Not as full-bodied as some Nero d'Avola, but a lovely easy-drinking wine with clean, dark-berry fruits, no real tannins and with pretty good length too. A great everyday wine to drink alongside both red and white meats. Stockists: Mitchell Son, Glasthule and CHQ, mitchellandson.com; Cellars Wine Warehouse, Galway

Viña Maipo Gran Devoción Syrah/Petite Syrah 2008, Central Valley, Chile, 14.5%, €9.99from January 18th A very attractive mix of savoury pepper and ripe dark fruits; full-bodied and powerful with a touch of liquorice. Chile makes some very impressive Syrah, and this is worth trying out. Drink alongside grilled and roast red meats. Stockists: selected Dunnes Stores