Culinaria: Is it a stock or is it a soup? Bone broth can be both

Before the commercial advent of the stock cube in 1908, every chef had to make stock daily

According to one dictionary definition, a broth resides somewhere between a stock and a soup. But not all broths fit into this definition. Some are clear preparations of gently simmered bones and vegetables while others are thick, unctuous arrangements of eggs, noodles and chicken.

Whatever your position on this difficult epistemological issue, you cannot make a broth without making some sort of stock first. Moreover, your broth could also be the basis of a soup, after it has been strained of its simmered contents. Additionally, if you don’t blend your soup into a smooth purée, it could be mistaken for a rustic broth.

Before the commercial advent of the stock cube in 1908, every chef had to make stock daily. Many chefs, including myself, continue to do so, but the advent of the bouillon cube brought an end to the roasting of bones in many a kitchen worldwide.

To make a simple chicken stock, roast six chicken carcasses until nicely browned. You don’t need to oil them or add salt. In a large pan, fry some onion, carrot and celery until nicely caramelised. Strain all the fat from the vegetables and place them in a large pot with the browned carcasses. Add half a bottle of white wine or cider, a few apples and some nice green herbs. Cover with water, bring to the boil and then simmer for three hours (skimming occasionally). Strain and allow to cool, then skim the fat off the top of the stock.

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To make a nice seaweed and barley broth from your chicken stock, slice an onion and fry in a large pot. Add a few handfuls of barley (mixed together with diced kelp) and stir into the fried onion. Cover with your chicken stock and simmer until the barley is soft.

To finish, mix together a few different seaweeds, such as sea lettuce and dillisk. Roughly chop them up and add them to the broth. If you live by a clean seashore, a bit of sea beet and sea radish (torn into little shards) would take this broth to the next level.