Bottles of the week

Fonty's Pool 2004 Pemberton Chardonnay and Henschke 2001 Tilly's Vineyard

Fonty's Pool 2004 Pemberton Chardonnay and Henschke 2001 Tilly's Vineyard

Fonty's Pool 2004 Pemberton Chardonnay. 13.5 per cent, €14.99

This hasn't quite the aplomb of those on Langton's list, but the esteemed Australian wine writer James Halliday got a kick out of the 2003 Chardonnay - "elegant melon, nectarine and a touch of grapefruit on the palate" - and, indeed, the whole Fonty's Pool output. I couldn't agree more. The 2004 is a well-balanced, fruit-filled wine with restrained use of oak and a tangy kick. This is a classy wine even with its screw-top bottle. From O'Briens.

Henschke 2001 Tilly's Vineyard, 13 per cent, €15.99

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Unlike its illustrious stablemate, the celebrated Hill of Grace, this is a more humble offering from Henschke, though complex and interesting in its own right. It is a Barossa blend of mainly Semillon, with about 20 per cent Chardonnay and 5-10 per cent Sauvignon Blanc; on the nose the fruit flavours struggle to break through the oak. But it is full in the mouth with zingy mineral intensity and a long, soft finish. Available from O'Briens.