Rosé used to be naff. Now, having overcome its image problem, it comes in styles to suit everybody. Just pray that the sun shines when you want to drink it
What makes rosé such a wonderful drink? The sun. Perhaps that is a touch simplistic, but sunshine is the key to creating the environment in which rosé performs best. That does not mean that without it we would not let a drop pass our lips, but when the sun opens its arms all things seem to fall naturally into its embrace.
That is, of course, a problem on this island. During the summer the sun is a frustratingly inconsistent presence; today the skies are as likely to be filled with foreboding clouds as they are to be warm and blue.
It's not as if rosé hasn't overcome enough problems. For years it was about as hip as the Eurovision Song Contest, with probably the same audience, but in recent times we've woken up to its charms, and so many different kinds are now on offer that the choice is dizzying.
France has an array of hugely different rosés from the north, east, west and south. And that's before you head to Spain or even farther afield, to countries such as Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, Greece and the US - home of the dreaded blush wines, mostly sweet concoctions that leave your taste buds a sugary mess.
The US doesn't have a monopoly on poor rosé; every wine country seems capable of producing it. So be wary of so-called bargains, as spending an extra euro or three can result in a much better experience.
Also be careful that it is proper rosé, not just white wine with red added to give it colour - a short cut favoured by the unscrupulous. True rosé gets it colour from being, for a time at least, in contact with the skins of the grapes from which it is made.
And though rosé is undoubtedly best in the summer, David Orr, of Dunnes Stores, says that its rosés sell all year round and that sales are growing. "In recent years we have trebled our rosé business," he says.
Although rosés are generally thought to be light, fruity and refreshing, different grapes, soil types and climates give a range of tastes.
The light, fragrant South African 2005 Delheim Pinotage Rosé (O'Briens, €8.99) is a completely different cup of meat (to borrow a phrase from singer Loudon Wainwright) from the extraordinarily meaty 2004 Matahiwi Estate Rosé, from Wairarapa, in New Zealand (Oddbins, €11.99).
The same is true of Berry Bros & Rudd's classy 2004 Bordeaux Rosé (€12.95) and Laurent Miquel's stylish 2004 Cinsault Syrah, from the Languedoc (Dunnes Stores, €7.99). In many ways it is this range of colour that has brought rosé to life.
Rosé should be chilled, but be careful not to chill all the flavour out of it. At its best, this is a friendly, modest drink that will go down well with summer salads or simply on its own, as an aperitif - accompanied by sunshine, of course.
jbreen@irish-times.ie