NCAD students eschew glitz and glamour for understated elegance

New Irish talent and directions in fashion were on display yesterday at the annual NCAD graduate fashion show held in the historic St Catherine's Church in the Liberties, a few paces from the college.

The class of 2014, their collections inspired by everything from climate change to Celtic Tiger consumerism, showed their strengths and impressive maturity in many ways, not least their individual approach to fabric, construction and colour, and professional polish. No glitz, no glamour, but understated elegance and femininity.

Innovative use of printing and fabric manipulation was evident in many collections, notably those of Audrey Kennealy and Amie Egan. Confident contrasts The architectural flat planes of white fabric from Caoimhe McNeice and textured handcraft of Rachel Duke contrasted with the zany modern takes on Asian dress by Aimee Chan and chunky Kusama-style polka dots from Hannah Choy O'Byrne, both of whom pushed the silhouette in exaggerated directions.

Ciara Lennon and Naoise Farrell brought new looks to contemporary menswear using illustration and contrast fabrics, while Lily Spain’s red patent jackets, raw edge leathers and fluorescent Perspex bags left no doubt that she would carry on the family tradition with style.

Her mother, designer Carolyn Donnelly, works as creative head of Dunnes Stores who sponsored the show.

Elsewhere, an arresting use of native tweeds by Anna Gyo from Donegal and a collection from Andrew Bell explored the relationship between women and handbags, while the wooden stretcher frames in Elaine Cawley’s collection created dramatic shapes and dark funereal looks.

Alice Doherty's delicate dip-dyed chiaroscuro gowns earned her this year's River Island bursary, while the graceful collections of Gwen Cunningham and Trish Carroll stood out for their sheer elegance and grandeur.

Styled by Matthew Kirwan, this was a stellar show.

However, on the evidence of what the third year students are already producing, also on the runway yesterday, next year’s graduates will be ones to watch too.