All About The Romance

WEDDING RETHINK Barefoot or wellies? White or, gulp, grey? You want it next week? These are a few of the tall orders designer Eilis Boyle has had to fill since dipping her toes into the wedding market

A FEW SATURDAYS AGO, a young woman walked into Bow Boutique in Dublin’s Powerscourt and bought an Eilis Boyle dress.

“It was a very 1950s dress, one of a kind,” recalls Boyle, “in a three-layered fabric of lace, tulle and organza with a high boat neck, full skirt and a taffeta sash – she was getting married three days later.”

Such last-minute choices by modern brides are not uncommon, according to the Irish fashion designer, who says many couples are now putting money into their honeymoons rather than into expensive gowns and accessories.

“It’s incredible. I have had so many brides who are getting married in nine days time or in two to three months and they are girls who are picking from the styles I have who want something to wear again. They are not planning forward too much – some are staying in Ireland, some are going to New York or to places like Sicily or Croatia.”

Clients have included women in their 30s, in their 60s, some with children, some marrying again. “Some come with ripped-out images from magazines, some just casually dropping by,” she says. “My dresses are very simple and my brides are in tune with that.” In airy chiffons and tulle, they are also undeniably romantic in spirit.

For a designer who never anticipated catering for a wedding market, the demand has been “a revelation”.

“It’s incredible. I have had 18 brides since last January and it has reached the stage where I have to put a cap on it because I can only take five appointments a week and it requires the responsibility of fittings. But I am really loving it because I am more in touch with making dresses than last year when production was really hectic. I know where to get beautiful fabrics in Paris, where to find laces and all sorts of chiffon.”

Although the preferred colours are still the conventional off-white and buttermilk, Boyle has even sold a grey dress to a German girl. Dress lengths tend to be below the knee, but each client still wants something unique to them. “The bride who is coming to me isn’t going for the full wedding experience; they are going for something smaller, to a restaurant or renting a house at home or abroad. And they are often looking for boyfriend approval or come in with the boyfriend.”

Another factor for stay-at-home Irish brides is the weather. “They usually want a little bolero or cape because they don’t know what the weather is going to be like, so I’m making little tailored jackets in organza, which is doing my head in. I love it when the fabric doesn’t do what I want it to do, but it’s a great challenge.”

She also feels that her clients “don’t want to dress in a costume, in something that takes them over. There is a real movement of people being more true to themselves and my dresses don’t overtake a person.”

Many of her brides want to go barefoot or in one case there’s a bride who intends to wear flip flops and wellies to her wedding in a tent in Cavan. The dress for this occasion, in ripped white chiffon with frayed edges, is one of the few floor-length numbers she has been asked to make. Boyle’s own wedding was an unconventional one in Mexico nine and a half years ago.

“My husband is from northern Mexico and I wore two dresses, one I made myself and a traditional Mayan embroidered white dress. We had both a church ceremony and a traditional Mayan one with a shaman and there were about 30 guests.”

Neither wanted a big wedding, but unbeknown to them the whole village had been organised to turn out for the occasion, children holding candles and everybody singing and dancing. “When you have no expectations, anything that happens is going to be a gift. It was incredible.”

Wedding dos and dont's

Wedding lists

They do not have to be set up with one department store. You could talk to a furniture shop that stocks a particular chair that you covet, an antique store that has a beautiful canteen of cutlery, or a Persian rug boutique where there’s a desirable kilim. Or you could talk to a gallery about an artist you admire and ask them to set up a list for you. Conranshop.co.uk (in Arnotts in Dublin) has great chair ideas, Niallmullenantiques.com has lovely sculpture and lighting, 1stdibs.com has an incredible list of beautiful things from furniture to lighting, and Mylesquirke.com, orientalrugs.ie and peterlinden.com all offer a selection of kilims.

Creative thinking

A group of friends clubbed together and had Blaise Smith paint my wedding shoes as a present. The piece is inscribed on the back and has pride of place over the mantelpiece. A family friend took a piece I had always admired off his wall and presented it to me without even wrapping it. Prints are another option. Immaeditions.com lets you buy online and offers some of the best of Irish artists at affordable prices.

Don’t force your style

The idea of buying something on a wedding list may bring you out in hives but it’s not about you. If the couple has furnished you with a list then you should oblige by honouring their request. That said, Peoplelovepresents.com delivers rather cool ideas – everything from tents to picnic hampers.

Around the world

A good world atlas is a great resource and might encourage the couple to travel the world together, even if only from their armchair. As gifts go it's reasonable in price, can be inscribed and can last a lifetime. The Irish Times Desktop Atlas of the Worldis €23.75 while the Times' Concise Atlas of the Worldis €118.80. Both are available at easons.ie.

Winning with wine

A gift of a case of wine can really soften the post-wedding come-down. Winesdirect. ie has a range of presentation option, from single bottles to cases with tasting notes. But all good neighbourhood wine shops also have this service and may be able to offer a more personalised option, especially if they know the couple’s preferences.

Cash is king

Guests hate giving it but soon-to-beweds love receiving it. No matter how small your celebration, a wedding bleeds every penny you have. Your gift of cash could be the difference between a mini-moon and no honeymoon at all.

No nos

Do not recycle gifts. A friend received a gift of glassware that, when she went to return it, discovered hadn't been stocked in at least five years. If broke, go empty-handed rather than with handme-downs – most brides and grooms understand lack of cash but we all hate a cheapskate. Send on a present when you can. Do not agree to go in with a group of friends on the buying of a present and then welch on paying your way. Do not long-finger the gift-giving. Traditionally the gift should be given before or on the big day. In real life, you have a year in which to do so. After that, it gets embarrassing. -Alanna Gallagher

- Photographs by Eduardo Macias Styled by Aisling Farinella Make-up and hair by Aoife Redmond Models: Iseult at Morgan the Agency and Laura at 1st Option Location: La Catedral Studios, St Augustine Street, D8 Eilis Boyle'ss bride collection is available at Bow in Powerscourt Town House, Dublin and from September in Kalu, Naas. Tel: 01-7071763