Take Six

If sampling an array of Christmas puddings sounds like a frightful task, the reality is not as dyspeptic as you might imagine.

Suet has vanished as an ingredient of modern puddings, and what we discovered was that the puddings were lighter than the traditional pud, and also that there were very considerable differences between the half dozen we stoically set before ourselves.

Two friends, Lewis and Cyril, helped my wife Sally and I with the tasting.

Tesco Xmas Pudding, 1 lb £5.99

The luxury Tesco pudding is suitable for vegetarians and comes with the approval of Anton Edelman, head chef at The Savoy. Edelman knows his puds: we liked the strong boozy scent from the rum and cognac, the moist, crumbly texture, and the fact that you were aware of the different fruits and nuts. A very good pudding.

8/10

Marks & Spencer 1 lb £6.99

This M&S pud was dark and moist with a good shape, but we found it to be rather too sweet, and there was no zestiness or tangyness at all - the ingredients had simply compacted together, and there was no boozy note. Rather disappointing. Clever packaging though, with a pudding bowl that sat on its own little legs in the saucepan, giving an inch extra space for water, which removed the threat of it boiling dry during the long process of steaming.

4/10

St Bernard Luxury Xmas Pudding (Dunnes Stores), 1 lb £4.59

Some found the texture of the Dunnes pudding to be rather too cloying, though we did like the fact that the pudding had good fruit notes and wasn't too heavy.

4/10

Barrons Bakery Xmas Pudding, 1 lb £3.99

Barron's is a traditional bakery in Cappoquin, Co Waterford, which distributes throughout West Waterford and in Dublin branches of Roches Stores. This was the most home-made of all the puds, with a golden colour the shade of Demerara sugar. In truth it was almost more like a cake than a pudding; it was very light, with a lovely aroma and good texture that screamed out for some rich brandy butter.

7/10

Gateaux (Roches/SuperValu), 1 lb £3.09

The Gateaux pudding was the most inexpensive we tried, and the range is sold through Roches Stores and Supervalu. The pud is suitable for vegetarians. We found little to commend it however: the texture was too dry, there was no element of citrus to lighten the flavour, and a sharp caramel note left a bitter aftertaste.

3/10

Country Choice, 2 lb £10

Peter Ward's Country Choice shop, in Nenagh in Co Tipperary, is famous as a place to buy top quality fruit for Christmas and Mr Ward puts his fruit to work in his own puds - the glace fruit comes from Perugia and the peel from Zargasso in Spain. Such detail explains the higher than normal price, but this pudding is worth any amount of money. Superlative flavour thanks to the excellent fruit and a fresh note thanks to the use of barley wine, meant that this was the unanimous favourite of all the puddings. Country Choice will post the puddings anywhere; p&p £4 within Ireland. Tel: (067) 32596.

10/10