London calling

The size of London and its dizzying number of shops is liable to put even the hardened Christmas shopper into a spin. To prevent festive fatigue setting in early, here is a selection of stores that will take care of most relatives and loved ones. A good tip is to avoid Oxford Street. Not only is it the capital's most crowded street, attracting a very slow breed of shopper, but it doesn't have many shops that you wouldn't find on Grafton Street. However, within spitting distance of this frantic thoroughfare are Soho and Covent Garden, home to an excellent cross-section of shops.

En route, stop at Liberty on Regent Street. This mock Tudor department store will instantly put you into the Christmas spirit. High points include its unfeasibly large collection of scarves, and stunning and reasonably priced jewellery. On the ground floor is the Christmas shop, which sells all sorts of Yuletide decorations - if you're feeling decadent, buy a box of six home-made crackers decorated with peacock feathers and filled with truffles for £29 sterling or chilli pepper fairy lights (£29.95).

Round the corner on Carnaby Street is Lush, ideal for stocking fillers. It sells lotions and potions and is rather like the Body Shop's younger, wacky sister. It is famous for its huge slabs of soap, which are cut to the required size. These are no ordinary soaps: No 1 Seed, for example, looks like granary bread and comes packed with poppy and sesame seeds and rosemary.

In the heartland of Soho, on Broadwick Street, is Agent Provocateur, London's most glamorous underwear shop. Easy on the eye, rather than the pocket, there you can buy a wonderful pair of pale green satin pants with a fuchsia lace trim for £35, a black lace corset, £95, or a pair of fluffy mules, £55.

For kids you could make the obvious bee-line for Hamleys on Regent Street, but for a less hectic experience try Daisy and Tom on the Kings Road in Chelsea. This mini-department store sells everything from clothes and books to baby computers. For an artistic child there is a baby potter's wheel, £24.99, and for the future Eddie Irvine, an electronic Alfa Romeo Spider, £250. Best of all there are endless distractions for the children including a carousel and a puppet theatre.

Notting Hill is another great area for shopping. Having difficulties with the fellas in the family? The London Beach Store on the Portobello Road, may be the answer. This shop, shaped like a skateboarder's practice ramp, specialises in urban street wear and big boys toys: kites (£4£1,000), juggling balls, and yoyos. I recommend the £15 Eyeflo Frisbee, which you programme with a personal message which lights up when thrown. All the top street-wear names are here: Mambo, Psycho Cowboy and Million-dollar, and there's even that pair of £70 Teflon coated, microfibre lined trousers you've always been looking for.

On Blenheim Crescent, off Portobello Road, are some of the best specialist book shops in London. Books for Cooks sells every conceivable book related to cooking, from Beeton's Book of Household Management to a book dedicated to ginger. Garden Books is a mecca for the green-fingered brigade, selling books on flower arranging to arboriculture. The Travel Bookshop is a must for intrepid adventurers and sells not only guide books, but novels and political books which travellers would enjoy.

Ten minutes walk from Portobello is Clarendon Cross, which contains a cluster of excellent shops. The Cross is like a magpie's nest. Although not cheap, everything is in impeccable taste: beaded, embroidered and sequinned bags, bright cashmere jumpers, and for kiddies, bright pink wellies (£12.50) and matching umbrellas (£9).

If you're staying south of the Thames, it is worth visiting Kitschen Sync in Clapham. It sells bright, functional plastics, retro kitchenware and really silly gifts. Everything is the best of good bad taste, such as Elvis soaps, £2,50, glowing cactus lamps, £29, heart-shaped chairs, £29 and football fairy lights, £15. The kitchenware is practical and surprisingly cheap, such as old-fashioned enamel colanders (£12.50). If you're not planning a trip to London, several of the shops listed will be happy to send you a catalogue.

Where to shop

Liberty, Regent Street, W1 (01717341234) *

Lush, 40 Carnaby Street, W1 (0171-2875874)

Agent Provocateur, 6 Broadwick Street, W1 (0171-4390229) *

Daisy & Tom, 181 Kings Road, SW3 (0171-3525000) *

London Beach Store, 178 Portobello Road, W11 (01712432772)

Books For Cooks, 4 Blenheim Crescent, W11 (0171-2211992)

Garden Books, 11 Blenheim Crescent, W11 (0171-792 0777)

The Travel Bookshop, 13-15 Blenheim Crescent, W11 (0171229 5260) www.thetravelbookshop.co.uk

The Cross, 141 Portland Road, W11 (0171-727 6760) *

Kitschen Sync, 9 The Pavement, Clapham Common, SW4 (0171652 1070) *

* Catalogue available

Where to flop

For lunch, afternoon tea or dinner, try Julie's Restaurant and Bar 135Portland Road, W11 (0171-229 8331).

Where to stay

The Portobello Hotel, 22 Stanley Gardens, W11 (0171-727 2772). Singles from £115, doubles from £155

Edward Lear B&B, 20-30 Seymour Street, W1 (0171-402 5401). Singles from £45, doubles from £64.50