LIGHTS FANTASTIC

ONE midsummer Dun Laoghaire morning, the rock roost enjoyed by a few pigeons and terns was rudely interrupted. Helmets, boots and uniforms clattered up and down granite steps; dirty cotton covers were whipped off the top guns were ready. An invasion? No, just an Army salute for that visiting US warship.

Not every schoolchild knows this, but the Dun Laoghaire Battery is one of only two gun saluting stations in the State. The other is at Spike Island in Cork harbour. Unlike Spike, Dun Laoghaire has an alter ego - as the East Pier's distinctive navigational port light.

It is the only lighthouse station on the Irish coastline to have had a bicycle allowance for its principal keeper. The "PK", as the boss was known, was responsible for both east and west pier navigational marks. Some sailed, or rowed, across the harbourmouth. Some cycled the two mile and a bit distance ashore.

Those were the days before automation, which has revolutionised the Irish lighthouse network along the 2,700 mile coast and left only one "manned" beacon at Baily, Howth, which is to be automated early next year. Charged with providing safe passage to shipping since an Act of Grattan's Parliament in 1786, the Commissioners of Irish Lights are still responsible for maintaining the fabric of some of the finest coastal architecture in Europe, in addition to the new technology therein.

To this end, plans are already afoot to transform northern Europe's oldest light at Hook Head in Co Wexford into a heritage centre. The existing distinctive black and white tower dates from the 12th century. Though it cannot be proven, there is a belief that the Hook Head light could be the longest serving lighthouse in the world, as it is almost 16 centuries since the monks of St Dubhan maintained a permanent fire there.

The project, which is due to open next year, has been inspired by the success of the "Mizen Vision", the visitors' centre at Ireland's most southerly point which is run by the local Mizen Tourism Coop. It was due to the efforts of Sue Hill and others in the locality that the buildings around the light, linked by a footbridge over a 160 foot chasm, were transformed by the Mizen Tourism Co op and Irish Lights.

The centre recorded 38,000 visitors last year and has plans for a second phase - replacing its Portakabin with a building - if a difference of opinion with the European Regional Development Fund's assessment board can be sorted out. Funded originally through the EU Leader scheme, the Mizen project now exceeds Leader limits. However, it is under pressure from the assessment board to hand over control to the local authority, if further EU funding is to be approved.

IT is the sort of red tape which tends to throttle some of the most interesting and imaginative tourism projects, at a time when EU largesse appears to be no problem for more grandiose and often ridiculous concepts which may not have too much public support. Mizen Vision's Sue Hill says the relationship with Irish Lights could not be better, and the coop does not see why Cork County Council should have to take on that extra responsibility when a local group with a proven record is willing to do run the project.

So enthusiastic are the Commissioners of Irish Lights now to make use of derelict buildings that they have been examining public access to Dun Laoghaire East Pier. Opened up two to three times a year by Dun Laoghaire Harbour Authority, the battery is under the stewardship of the Department of the Marine, while the Department of Defence has access to the guns. Recently, the Commissioners invited the Minister for the Marine, also Dun Laoghaire TD, Sean Barrett, down to have a look and are awaiting his response to their plans for a heritage centre and coffee shop there.

Even before a guide like Irish Lights depot boatswain, Fred English, opens his mouth in the company of this reporter, the shared ownership is fairly evident. Shabby buildings maintained by the State are in stark contrast to the immaculately polished and painted lighthouse tower. Built in 1842, the East Pier light and fog bell predated the battery, which was constructed to protect the coast and replace a similar fortress at Glasthule in the 1850s.

High granite blocks were taken from Dalkey quarry and the tops of the walls were rounded to deflect shot. Equipped with guns, a powder magazine, shell and artillery stores, and a shot furnace, the battery also held quarters for 25 soldiers and an officer. A survey of 1859 records officers' and soldiers' water closets, a wash house and ash pit.

For a time, the East Pier accommodation was shared, but in 1910 the "PK" at "Kingstown East" reported that the British War Office was removing men and guns from the battery. He sought instructions for use of the bronze howitzer which had been lent by the Commissioners of Irish Lights to the military for firing during fog. The Commissioners agreed to retain the gun, according to Costeloe's account, and also sanctioned its use for yacht club races.

AS sea trade grew, demands by shipping companies prompted further change. The West Pier keeper was paid an extra £5 a year to sound a foghorn. In 1930, it became one of the first unwatched beats, as the East Pier staff of two assumed responsibility. The latter was then "staffed up" to three, who lived there with their families.

In March, 1955, it was designated as "relieving", and the families moved out. Fred English's father, Michael, was one of the last lightkeepers to work at the station, and one of those responsible for the upkeep of the tower. Recently, to meet navigational obligations, the east and west lights were given port and starboard colours. The new light no longer sweeps towards Beckett's anemometer, but its livery does match Poolbeg.

Still intact is the battery's 140 year old bell, with its simple mechanical works made by Sheridan of Dublin. Not quite so static is the dramatic 360 degree view. The little crow's nest, embracing Killiney hill, Dalkey quarry, the Dublin mountains, the city port and Howth head is one of the few spots in the barb our where one can look down on the new high speed ferry, the HSS.