Narva

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Independent Estonia: taking part in the Utria Assault in Narva. Photograph: Raigo Pajula/AFP/Getty

The border with Russia in the Estonian city of Narva could hardly be more symbolic. It is a half-frozen river running between two ancient castles that(...)

Narva castle by the river between Estonia and Russia: sitting on the fault line between opposing world views. It is the third-largest city in Estonia but 82 per cent of its residents are ethnic Russians. Photograph: Daniel McLaughlin

On a rainy July afternoon, as Estonians chatted over the burble of football on the television, Narva’s Old Trafford restaurant did not feel like a pla(...)