Monday, May 4th
Early start in Camp 1. With the best intentions in the world, getting up and out of a warm sleeping bag at 4am is a feat in itself when the outside temperature is sitting around -15. I forced my gear on slowly while attempting to remain in the sleeping bag and it wasn’t until Sona Sherpa arrived with the black tea did a man really start to rev the engine. Black tea and sugar. Hook it to my veins please.
Once the crampons were on and everyone was packed away, we started steadily towards Camp 2. I was happy to set pace behind Sherpa Milan and enjoy the surreal display of natural beauty that surrounded us. Everest to our left, Lhotse straight in front and the grand, ever extending western face of Nuptse to our right.
The clouds drifted in and out, pierced by the sunlight, turning them into a prism of light that reminded me of the Pink Floyd album cover ‘Dark Side Of The Moon’. If I wasn’t looking at it with my own eyes, I’d nearly think it was an AI edit of reality in front of me. This trek is direct and Camp 2 is forever on the horizon. We could see our destination but it took a few hours to reach it and rest.
My team-mate Adam Sweeney suffered the consequences of not eating the day before. His appetite was non-existent and he was paying for it now, forced to grind his way for the last portion of the hike to the tents. Camp 2 is basic with simple provisions and food. That was to cause its own issues.
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Tuesday, May 5th
A surprisingly decent sleep, considering the howling winds throughout the night and morning. May I use this opportunity to point out that the single most important piece of equipment in high camps is the pee bottle. Having to exit your tent to relieve oneself in the middle of the night up here is just a no-no, and suffering not doing so means no sleep at all.
I couldn’t be happier with how my body is feeling. Breathing is comfortable at this altitude, which is a great sign and I pray it continues this way. The day passed with little effort or interest. Some reading, writing and general small talk. Lunch was barely edible and dinner even worse. Even eating it, you knew this could be a problem.
Once back in the tents, Adam and I had what I would describe as the conversation of the expedition so far. Far beyond surface level. Both of us spoke deeply about our own journeys of mental health and what that meant to us going forward. For a young lad of 22, he has a solid head on his shoulders.
Then came the dreaded stomach pains. I battled for the entire night, refusing to vomit. Let me tell you, the tent becomes smaller, the wind louder and the air thinner when you’re feeling like this. But we stuck it out.
Wednesday, May 6th
A horrible night for both of us. And also, I’m sure, our team leader Jason Black only a few feet away in his own tent, although he made sure to put on a brave face. Outside it’s a snowstorm, my first experience of one. Wind ripped across camp, bringing snowflakes like knives with it. It meant a quick dive into the dining tent for breakfast.
Most of camp was sick by now. Nobody was willing to move or speak much. Jason put on a smile, pretending he slept well and was feeling good. That lasted until the boiled eggs were presented and he couldn’t even stomach one.
The liquid potion of sugary black tea was all the lads had while I forced the two eggs down somehow and put another in my jacket pocket. Cool Runnings was playing in my head. Feel the rhythm, feel the rhyme.
After two nights in Camp 2, it was time to start heading back down to Everest Base Camp. We were the first team to brave the conditions and start our trek. No lovely views today, just a whiteout. Only for markers laid out, you wouldn’t be long getting lost.
My battle was with my stomach for this part of the journey to Camp 1. Our team-mate Eanna McGowan popped his head out of a tent to say hi but I couldn’t even muster up the effort to speak to him, for fear of vomit following any word I’d say.
Down we continued, from Camp 1 to EBC. The ladder crossing was more challenging thanks to the conditions, but we all got by. The major serac that stands just below is still waiting menacingly for its victim. So when we move, it’s as fast as humanly possible over this section.
A partial collapse the day before had nearly killed two climbers, only for the intervention of the Sherpa and a medical evacuation helicopter getting them to safety. After another hour or so of negotiating big drops and crevasses, we were all overjoyed to be back on the glacier and nearly home and dry.
Quick contact home to all the important parties to let them know of our safety and then we relaxed for the day at EBC. Every man enjoyed a well-deserved sleep.
Thursday, May 7th
Today there was no call for breakfast. Everyone was left to sleep in. I have been struggling the last few days and nights with some negative and admittedly dark thoughts. I’d say I have a fairly strong mindset but even so, I’m finding it very hard to get away from my own mind at times.
My stomach has recovered and the appetite is right back. Unfortunately the same can’t be said for Adam as he continues to struggle with his stomach. Today is a return to rest and recovery mode. Longer conversations with home and as much food as possible to replenish the deficit of the last few days.
Friday, May 8th
I woke this morning with my mind more settled. Still questions remain but my awareness is enough right now to keep them at bay. I will deal with them in time, once I finish the task at hand. This requires all my intention.
“Any Irish lads about?” Eanna is back in camp from his rotation. I jumped up and headed for the big tent with him. Barry’s tea bag was flashed into the mug and we had a good chin-wag about all the goings on. Adam had announced he was going down the valley due to the sickness still not settling. Tea finished, Eanna went for the cot, while Jason and I worked on bits for an hour or so.
Then, out of nowhere, a big commotion. Eanna arrived back in clutching his throat, unable to breathe. Jason ran for oxygen while George (an Armenian buddy of ours) and I worked on calming him down and supporting some form of shallow breathing. Eventually, he was able to catch some form of breath and once it was clear that further intervention wouldn’t be required to open an airway, we all settled down.
The oxygen soon arrived and all was fairly calm again. He just needed to be monitored for the day. What had happened was that his respiratory system became severely fatigued from the few days at altitude. It was scary but he was on the mend after the brief intervention.
That was the only drama for the day, thankfully. There was a huge avalanche just before lights out but you get used to them. It’s fine when sitting in EBC. A slightly different feeling when you’re up on the mountain itself.
Saturday, May 9th
The snow has come in heavy and will be here for the next two days. Does it matter to us at EBC? Not really. But it does delay route setting above and also leaves huge deposits along the route which will eventually come down as avalanches.
There is one I’m very conscious of personally which sits just above the ladder section as you come up the icefall. When that falls – and it will eventually – it will take out everything in that section. One can only hope no one happens to be there at the time.
This season is a nightmare up here. The weather is causing delays and there has been setback after setback. The summit window continues to close, the route is still not set. We are plotting our own route as things stand but it is becoming very clear this season will not be kind on Everest.
Sunday, May 10th
The day passed slowly again. We did some oxygen bottle training to fill the time. I phoned home as well. My baby girl has her fourth birthday today, something I tried to forget as fast as the phone call was over. My internal dialogue is constantly saying the less emotion the better.
Read, write, scroll, eat and repeat essentially today. We are still adapting our plans and watching the weather the way the dog watches you eat your dinner in the hope something might make its way to the floor. Regardless, next week should be go time. We hope.
♦ Pádraig O’Hora is climbing Everest to support the Mayo Mental Health Association.
