July 28th, 1930: THE IRISH Times's fashion correspondents of former years, usually anonymous, were highly opinionated women and did not restrict themselves to fashion. In this report from 1930, the anonymous correspondent described the fashions of the day and offered a few insights into other matters along the way.
“July will soon be over and those of us who are tired of the hustle and bustle of Paris will make ready to go to the seashore, to the mountains, to Switzerland, Spain, Italy – anywhere.
Dr JP Mahaffy in his book, The Art of Conversation, writes some salient remarks on national differences and customs. He maintains that these only become clearly defined in the humbler ranks of a society, and that high-born and highly cultured people are alike in type everywhere – in Paris, London, Rome, New York and Madrid.
But, all the same, we who travel are aware that there is a remarkable disparity in character, and to a certain extent in social manners and customs. Someone remarked that “the woman who can talk like an American, dress like a Parisienne, and have the grand air of a high-bred Englishwoman, has obtained the highest point of feminine perfection.”
Certain it is that a Parisian woman of the best class holds a high place among the matrons of Europe. She dresses better, talks better, and walks better than the average woman. Also, she is more witty, and has a more finished manner.
The Mid-Summer Delights
Among the mid-summer delights is the exceptionally short evening wrap, which is a jaunty little coat. This is made in white or pale-coloured cloth, and trimmed with fur, real or imitation, according to your purse. Reaching scarcely to the normal waistline, it follows a straight bolero line, which is either youthful or most consoling to those of mature figure; its sleeve flows slightly, according to the present line. Another new evening coat is made of moiré or faille, or very heavy crêpe-de-chine, and follows the mid-Victorian basque line, full and longer at the back; this sloping coat may be plain or trimmed with narrow fur the entire way round, but it is always lined to ensure the outstanding line of its rippling tails.
Cut on redingote lines, either merely in tendency or very much fitted in, and fully flared, the first autumn coats are here. Although still very limited as to numbers, this type of coat bids fair to usher in the autumn, and, in its heavier weights, to see the winter through. It is a natural development of the fitted frocks and the flounced skirts, for which room must be made in the skirts of the coats. At any rate, women are ordering them now.
The Wide Skirt is Here
The wide skirt is here. Whereas in the beginning of the present season the talk was all of length, women with an occupation are now concerned over the width they may be doomed to carry back and forth from day to day. “Ankle long and as wide as they can be made” is one of the regulations for afternoons, but there is still the loophole of escape through which the business woman may get out, on the score of occupation not permitting. Perhaps the very wide skirt may be eliminated from the all day scheme, as was the very long one, provided women cry out in time. But, for the woman without daily occupation, and unarmed with golf stick or tennis racket, the wide skirt has a graceful swing.”
http://www.irishtimes.com/newspaper/opinion/2009/0728/1224251492383.html