Thais brave Bangkok rain for mass mourning of king

Almost on the stroke of midday, the skies above this city opened, drenching its streets and its mourning residents. Ironically too, today officially marked the end of Vassa, the three-month rainy period that devout Thais consider to be their Buddhist Lent.

Choonbun Rimkimphat was doing a brisk trade selling stupa, traditional gold ornaments that adorn shrines. His are injection-moulded and imported from Myanmar.

“These past three days have been very busy,” Rimkimphat said. “So many customers. Everyone wants to build a shrine for his majesty.”

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Policemen stand guard in the rain outside the Grand Palace as mourners wait to pay their respects to the late king. Photograph: Edgar Su/Reuters

King Bhumibol Adulayej (88) died on Thursday after seven decades ruling this nation of 67 million. For most Thais, he is the only monarch they have ever known, a figure of political stability and political reverence. He ascended the throne in 1946 after his elder brother, King Ananda Mahidol, died in a shooting incident, and he has survived a dozen military coups.

In front of every public building, and many businesses, temporary, street-side shrines have been erected, all featuring a portrait of King Bhumibol; two stupa; yellow ribbons to honour the Royal Family; and black and white ribbons for mourning.

The military government, led by former general and prime minister Prayuth Chan-ocha, has ordered an official mourning period of one year, and entertainment and festivals have been cancelled for at least 15 days.

Bars, restaurants and corner stores were prohibited from selling alcohol. Vendors such as Rimkimphat and those selling clothes and ribbons have been warned by authorities not to inflate prices nor try to profit during the mourning period.

Tourists – some 33 million visited Thailand in 2015 – have also been advised to forgo bright colours and to respect mourning protocols. For Thais, those protocols include visiting the Grand Palace, the symbolic heart of the monarchy and the location where King Bhumibol now lies in a coffin with a ceremonial cremation urn by his side.

At some date yet to be determined by the government – and likely at least a year away – he will be ceremoniously cremated.

Tens of thousands of Thais, mostly wearing dark clothing, continued to stream into the Grand Palace complex. Officials say half a million visited yesterday alone. Non-Thais are prohibited now from entering the 54-acre site behind stark white-washed walls that houses temples and palaces on the banks of Bangkok’s Choa Phraya river. The site has been the ceremonial home of the kings of Siam since 1782.

On Sunday, Roong Chayya helped her 78-year-old mother, Ana, to the site to burn incense and offer prayers for King Bhumibol.

“He was our father,” Chayya said. “He symbolised everything that was good. He helped the people of Thailand so much. We knew this day would come but we never wanted it to happen. We all loved him so much.” Her mother nodded knowingly at the sentiments, even if she didn’t understand the actual English spoken.

“We wish all the best for our new majesty,” Chayya added.

The government has confirmed that Crown Prince Maha Vajiralongkorn will become king, but hasn't said when that will happen. He has indicated that he wants time to mourn his father, and he won't take the throne until after King Bhumibol's cremation.

In the interim, the government has confirmed that the 96-year-old head of the Privy Council, Prem Tinsulanonda, will act as regent. He is a former prime minister and army general, a combination that reflects the Thai military's long-standing involvement in the country's political affairs. Thailand's 1924 Palace Law rules out a female monarch, and in 1972, King Bhumibol named his son as heir, effectively ending any chance the highly respected Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn might succeed.

Authorities have banned criticism or commentary on the current succession, in keeping with the country's tough lèse-majesté laws.

The crown prince has been absent from Thailand for prolonged periods and his three marriages and life in Germany make for salacious gossip among Thais – out of earshot of authorities – and he once gave his pet dog the rank of Air Marshal.

In August, Thailand held a referendum to approve the military’s plans for the future government but the promise of elections has been put on hold until 2018 at the earliest.