The real deal: a fáilte for the future

We've made a name out of our 'céad mile fáilte', but can Irish hospitality live up to the ideal? Hoteliers and holiday-makers serve up their suggestions

HOSPITALITY IS ABOUT GIVING people an experience that is fulfilling and offers escapism, explains Drew Flood, general manager at Bentley's Oyster Bar Grill on Dublin's St Stephen's Green. "We want to be transported from our mortgage woes and arguments with the other half. It's about giving good theatre and fine food in a seductive environment."

And it is the central plank of the tourism industry, explains Peter McCann, general manager of the Merrion Hotel in Dublin. "I think we're a naturally hospitable people," he says. "Look at the figures, there is consistent growth in the volume of people coming here. They don't come for the weather, they come for the welcome and the hospitality."

"The welcome is one of the most important things when you arrive in any establishment," agrees Sammy Leslie of Castle Leslie in Co Monaghan, who was also judge on the recent RTÉ reality TV show Fáilte Towers. "It is essential that it's warm and welcoming but not over the top."

"You have to be able to go that extra mile for your customers to make them happy," adds McCann. He illustrates this with a story about a guest who wanted to get engaged in Dublin but under certain conditions. "He and his girlfriend would begin the day with a jog through Stephen's Green, where they would 'happen' on a tarot-card reader who would tell them that she could see something bright in their future. Then they were to encounter a leprechaun, a 'sign' that they were meant to be."

Róisín O'Kane, secretary to the manager at that time, organised the whole thing. "For her, it was absolutely natural to go that extra mile - she played the role of the tarot-card reader. It's about doing whatever it takes to make the guest happy," says McCann.

In Ireland, hospitality is about recognition, adds Adriaan Bartels, general manager of the Cliff House Hotel in Ardmore, Co Waterford and formerly of Sheen Falls Lodge in Kenmare, Co Kerry.

"You have to be able to recognise faces and names," says Bartels, who uses a database to ensure all the information he stores in his head is backed up.

Life is now so fast that hotel time should feel special, says John Fitzpatrick of Fitzpatrick's Hotel in New York. "Looking after your employees is as important as looking after your customers," he says. "You have to create a family atmosphere. Happy employees means a happy working environment which means a happy customer."

"Not everyone has the personality or talent to work in the industry," says Leslie. "Most other businesses involve an eight-hour day, five days week. Hospitality is 21 shifts a week. Each days passes into the next. It's a constant relay race and you can't drop the baton. It's a tough job and if you're not a team player, it's not for you." But it also offers amazing opportunities, she says.

"Hospitality is like the priesthood," adds Bartels. "You get a calling. You have to have a passion for the business. And you have to love the pressure."

And what do you do when hospitality become hostile, as evidenced in a recent episode of Fáilte Towers? Weather presenter Evelyn Cusack of Met Éireann referred to the paying guests at the hotel as rats and she was voted off the show.

"It showed that the world is divided into two kinds of people: those who can serve and those who can't," says Leslie. "If she referred to my customers in Castle Leslie as rats I'd have shot her on the spot."

The truth is that she was tired and emotional, the Fáilte Towers judge says. "The problem was that the joke permeated. Brian Dowling then picked it up, and if the general attitude of the staff is one of 'us and them', things start to crumble. Customers need to be treated with respect - they are your bread and butter."

Of course, not everything goes according to plan, but the way you deal with a problem is critical to ensuring you keep a customer, says Fitzpatrick. "My golden rule is never to let them leave the hotel until the general manager meets with them to discuss their grievance. You can turn a very bad experience into a very good and loyal customer." Bartels concurs: "A repeat guest is an ambassador for your business."

Some people spend six years studying psychology, Flood explains. "In hospitality it's like being on a field trip 24/7. You become a listener but never reveal anything about yourself. 'Always keep the counter between you and the guest,' was the credo of Ray Carroll, the now retired chief executive of the K Club. You can never cross that line."

Are we Irish better at it than others? Bartels is not convinced. "I don't think it's uniquely Irish," he says. "I have some really good French and Polish staff."

"Multiculturalism has improved levels of hospitality in the sector," adds McCann. "These people are here because they want to work. They bring energy and have the passion to succeed. Sometimes we hear negative comments, with customers disappointed by the fact that the Irish welcome was delivered by a rainbow of nationalities, but that's just modern life. The world has changed."

And what of the tourists? I stopped a lot of continentals, many of whom didn't speak English and my Italian, Spanish and French leave a lot to be desired. It struck me how very little interaction we can have when hindered linguistically, and it's worth considering how our own national failing at foreign languages impacts on the hospitality experience.

Felix Keslich, an Austrian street performer, wasn't bothered. He had good English and was going to the Solas music festival, and was looking forward to being put up by a local girl, a deal struck on couchsurfing.com, where you pay nothing for your bed - an example of real old-fashioned hospitality given a modern twist.

Bernard and Faye Leov, a couple from Marlborough, on New Zealand's south island, spent a month driving around the country, staying in bed and breakfasts. They were keen to experience the real Ireland, not the Ireland of the tourist books.

They were disappointed by the number of thatched cottages they came across (nil) and the fact that the Irish music sessions didn't start until 11pm (the kiwis retire early), but they had a ball. "We were made to feel welcome everywhere we went," they tell me. "We did experience the real Ireland but it wasn't the picture book Ireland of my childhood," was Bernard's only lament.

IN FÁILTE IRELAND'S 2007 Visitor Attitudes Survey, the most important factor in considering Ireland for a holiday was "Friendly, hospitable people." That was mentioned by 81 per cent of overseas holiday visitors, explains Brian Maher, head of research and policy development at the organisation. "Eighty-seven per cent said that they were 'very satisfied' with the friendliness and hospitality that they encountered while in Ireland."

So what does the future hold for our "céad mile fáilte"? While overseas holiday visitors in 2007 were up 7.6 per cent on 2006, figures for the first quarter of this year are down by 4 per cent on the same period in 2007. It means those involved in the sector need to keep their eye on the ball.

Desmond FitzGerald, the knight of Glin, knew his hospitality offering at Glin Castle was special but needed the touch of someone capable of creating a genuinely warm reception. He adapted by investing in the smooth-talking skills of Bob Duff, his manager of several years. "He has the social temperament to make everyone feel welcome and tells exotic tales about the family," explains FitzGerald.

That's the best side of the story. But hospitality can be a difficult and black art, practised by greedy palms looking to be crossed with silver or gold and it has taken a hit in this country, as a result of business people getting into the game because of tax breaks, says Sammy Leslie.

"These are people who availed of tax breaks and looked at profitability rather than being genuine hoteliers," Leslie claims. "Hospitality is not a bed factory."

"The customer has become more demanding," says Paul Gallagher, general manager of Buswells Hotel on Molesworth Street in Dublin. "We've become more impatient and a prompt and consistent service in hotels is essential to keep the customer happy." To survive, it's crucial to have a good bedside manner, explains Flood, who comes from three generations of doctors.

Hospitality in Ireland may be in polite rather than rude health and it needs regular check-ups.