Champagne J. Charpentier Brut NV (Wines Direct, tel 1 800 579579, £18.35 if you buy a case of six) "You can be born a Communist or a Christian, but I was born a vigneron," Jacky Charpentier told Paddy Keogh of Wines Direct - a manifesto which makes me like this champagne even more. Very straightforward - greenapple-fresh and crisp.
Champagne Jean Vesselle Brut, Oeil de Perdrix, NV (available early October direct from Southern Wines, tel 021 317652, fax 021 31008 0, £250 for a case of 12 incl. delivery; single bottles, various sizes, from Irish Provincial Hampers, tel 01 867 4002) A new arrival from an excellent producer in Bouzy, this Pinot Noir-based champagne of the palest, palest pink has lovely biscuity tones and a fine-tuned elegance. Well worth seeking out.
