`It's the new economic climate. People want good quality food," explains Joe Layden, the owner of the site of Dublin's first gourmet food hall. But the truth is that gastronomes, roaring Celtic Tiger or not, always love good food. For these people food is a vice. They know where to get the good stuff. They will go out of their way to get it. And they will pay the money, if it's worth it. Welcome to the seedy world of the epicure.
Joe Layden, also owner of the South City Markets shopping arcade, off South Great George's Street, bought the old Abbey Mall four years ago and transformed it. Today the haunt where depressed teenagers meandered into dim record shops playing obscure German Goth music, and left feeling even more depressed, is gone. In its place is the Epicurean Food Hall, straddling Lower Liffey Street and Middle Abbey Street, which officially opened this week. When I dropped by earlier, there were nine outlets up and running - and more to come. In the central area the tables and chairs filling the empty kiosks were slightly untidy looking, but Joe Layden says these will soon be filled by a sushi bar and a handmade ice-cream parlour.
At the entrance on Lower Liffey Street, the finishing touches were being added to Cavistons Seafood Bar. Stephen Caviston has seen phenomenal success with his delicatessen and restaurant in Glasthule, Co Dublin. "It was very important to me that the other food places in the hall were also of a high standard and quality," he says. "Very important," he repeats almost sternly. "Like Itsabagel. Their bagels are just fantastic. The dough is wonderful." And he gives me a look of a reformed Christian talking about his faith. Food merchants that match their foodie dependants in passion? Very interesting. I move on swiftly.
Irish sisters, Domini and Peaches Kemp, having spent much of their lives in the US, were keen to bring the bagel back. The bagel dough comes from New York and into their shop Itsabagel. Almost like people possessed, the Kemps enthuse over their bagels. "They're just great. I eat them all the time. And they have almost no fat or calories," says Peaches. "We already have regulars and I just love seeing their happy faces in the morning." Sandra Carey, who owns Sandra's Choice, has been cooking since the age of five. After a stint at Ballymaloe, she found the confidence to open up her own place. Serving up to five vegetarian ready-to-go meals (plus favourites such as Beef in Guinness), a day, she does all the work on her own, though she shyly suggests that she might invest in someone to help with the washing up. "I absolutely love cooking. This is not a job to me," she beams.
I leave with frittata in hand. My hunt for the secret behind all of this madness has finally brought me to Creme de la Creme, the French patisserie. Desserts and pleasure seem to go hand in hand. For me, heaven is my mother's sherry trifle with bavarois cream. I discover that Creme de la Creme is the nirvana of desserts, where only the purest, most delicious cakes ascend to and exist in total perfection. The creators are Mohamed and Mustafah Ouchbakou, both trained in France. In 1998, Mohamed was crowned World Master Pastry Chef in Toronto. They now supply hotels in Dublin, such as the Morrison and the Clarence, but also hotels as far afield as Wexford and Trim. And I, a self-confessed epicure, finally found peace of mind between the layers of a chocolate and orange mousse Alcazar cake.
Cavistons Seafood Bar
With chef Dave Gallagher from the Glasthule restaurant, Stephen Caviston is serving up tapas-like offerings such as spicy crab claws with Asian butter (£3.50), warmed smoked mackerel with fresh horseradish (£2) and smoked salmon, brown bread and capers (£3). Also available is a limited wine selection.
The Organic Shop
Danny O' Toole from O'Toole's organic butchers, Terenure and Glasthule, and Dick Wellwood, an organic farmer, have come together to bring the best in organic meat, fruit and vegetables to the city centre. Neither is new to the organic game and they aim to carry an impressively large selection of organic goods, including dairy products from yoghurt to ice cream, and dried products such as rice, muesli and pasta.
Sandra's Choice
A vegetarian, Sandra Carey has the much overlooked veggie's best interests at heart. Dishes such as the Leek and Gruyere Tart (£2.75) and the Stripy Lentil Moussaka (£4.50) have proved hits. Not only that, Carey also caters for vegans and celiacs. However, the choice is not limited to the culinarily marginalised. Other dishes include traditional Dublin Coddle (£4.50), in which she uses the speciality leek and pork sausages from the Organic Shop.
Itsabagel
Using organic vegetables, free-range meats and gourmet cheeses, Itsabagel offers plain and filled bagels, and home-made soups. Two of the most popular signature bagels are the Californian, with bacon, mozzarella, basil, and avocado (£3.25) and the Gourmet Veggie, with goat's cheese, roasted red peppers, humus, olive and sun-dried tomato tapenade, onion marmalade and mixed greens (£3.50).
Creme de la Creme
The Ouchbakou brothers have taken pity on the general public and are now selling their desserts direct. Favourites include the Hedgehog, made with pistachio and chocolate mousse, caramelised almonds and glazed with dark chocolate (£1.75) and the coffee cup, a shell of bitter chocolate with layers of chocolate sponge, soaked in coffee and Kahlua and mascarpone cream (£1.60).
La Corte
ALL things bright and Italian. From coffee and paninis to dried pasta and polenta. Manned by a very enthusiastic Mr Izzo.
The Big Cheese Company
An extension of the Andrew's Lane shop, this is to specialise in cheese and bread such as sourdough bread and German rye. These could accompany the wines available in Joe Layden's wine shop at the back of the hall.
Le Petit des Gourmet
Still reeling from the success of their main shop in Castle Market, Olivier Quenet is to open in one of the kiosks at the centre of the hall. People will be able to buy the finest in French fare - pate, foie gras, frogs' legs, and all things that boys are made of.
Kaffe Moka
Run by the Dempsey family, this is the sister branch of their cafe in Rathmines. Including the best of coffee, it is open late with poetry nights, tarot readings and live music.
Istanbul
Alex Kartein and Okif Oztas's first restaurant has a Mediterranean flavour. Items include char-grilled chicken, kebabs and Turkish-style pizzas.
Opening times vary from shop to shop but the mall generally is open from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., Monday to Saturday.