Although Sauternes - the great sweet wine of Bordeaux - can be sublime, it comes at a price which rather shunts it out of the casual summer drinking category. But along comes an affordable alternative. Mitchell's Gold Graves Superieures 1997 (Mitchells, Kildare Street and Glasthule, £9.95) has the exquisite aroma of oranges and honey. On the palate, it's neither cloying nor too alcoholic, but light and extremely pleasant, with hints of botrytis - the so-called "noble rot" great sweet wines depend on. A well-priced buy for what remains of the strawberry season.