Seville’s streets carry centuries of history, from the winding lanes of Santa Cruz to the riverfront facades of Triana. With its fairytale palaces, flower-lined alleyways, and intensely emotive flamenco, not to mention its booming boutique hotel scene, Seville must surely rank as Spain’s most romantic city.
That said, a recent visit doesn’t start entirely smoothly. On the morning of our arrival, our Airbnb host cancels. Usually, this would cause a minor panic that spirals into a full-blown crisis. But in Seville, it feels like part of the adventure. When we finally secure a new apartment, this time in Triana rather than the city centre, it turns out to be a stroke of luck. We stumble upon our ideal base: a neighbourhood full of locals, tiny tapas bars, and cobbled streets that feel far more authentically Sevillano than the city proper.
With accommodation secured, our first lunch takes place on the balmy terrace of El Sembrao, on a winding side street near Plaza Nueva. Of course, like all Irish people, we spend a few minutes marvelling at how dining out in Spain (or Italy, Greece, and, well, Europe) is so much more affordable, before moving on to the all-important ordering. We start with the obligatory Padrón peppers, blistered and salted to perfection, but as with most first-holiday meals, everything tastes sublime. The menu brims with traditional Spanish dishes, but standouts include Don Apolonio sheep’s cheese, pan con tomate, Iberian acorn-fed ham, and, naturally, patatas bravas. With a bottle of decent cava for €18, it’s no mystery why El Sembrao is packed.
Seville’s culinary DNA is perhaps best understood through its classics. Walking into El Rinconcillo, the city’s oldest tapas bar, feels like stepping back in time. Hams hang from the ceiling, dusty bottles line the shelves, and the bar gleams from decades of propped elbows. The bill is always written in chalk on the bar where you’re seated, and traditional recipes, from espinacas con garbanzos (spinach with chickpeas) to salmorejo (similar to gazpacho), have barely changed. Yes, it’s mildly touristy, but for good reason. After all, being a tourist has its benefits – long, languid lunches and aimless strolls are not to be sniffed at.
READ MORE
In the El Arenal neighbourhood, Abacería del Postigo is a quieter, more intimate spot where a blackboard menu promises fresh burrata on pumpkin cream, local cheeses, and perfectly ripe tomatoes. The charm lies in the unpretentious service and dishes that don’t disappoint, while the views of Seville’s famous cathedral from the outdoor terrace are reason enough to visit.
Crossing the Puente de Isabel II, Triana immediately seems distinct from the city centre – fewer tourists, more locals, and a louder, more lived-in rhythm that feels authentic. Staying here, courtesy of that last-minute Airbnb change, turns out to be fortuitous. The neighbourhood’s streets are lined with tapas bars, bakeries and cafes, each with a personality of their own.
Bodeguita el 24 captures our attention immediately. With just four outside tables, nabbing one feels impossible, so we watch from our roof terrace like sentries. Inside, the menu is simple yet precise, with a selection of conservas, jamón, cheese, and a natural wine list, including an orange wine that balances perfectly with the salted, cured flavours of the tapas. Securing a table outside feels like a small victory, and it’s the perfect place for a low-key, pre-dinner drink.
Directly next door, Gascona comes highly recommended and offers a completely different tempo. At 10pm on a Saturday night, it’s thronged with locals who know how to put the vibes into “weekend vibes”. Gascona’s vast menu clearly attracts those in the know. Like many of the restaurants and tapas bars we visit, dishes come with the option of ordering a tapa portion, half ración, or a full-size ración, making it easy to share and sample widely. Regional wines, sherries, and a crisp Asturian Sidra Trabanco add a northern touch. The hearty sharing rice dishes are a lovely contrast to the lighter tapas, and the staff’s enthusiasm is infectious.
On Sunday afternoons, El Sella is thronged with locals who have had the foresight to reserve a table for Sunday lunch, unlike us. Would we sit on the terrace? Of course, the answer is yes. Because you can do that in Seville, sans blankets, heaters, or the occasional drip of rain – although I’m sure on cooler evenings, a blanket might not go amiss. Inside is buzzing with locals upholding the Sunday lunch tradition, but outside on the street, we’re smug in the knowledge that we’ve managed to score a seat, idly watching the world go by.
After lunch, a pit stop at Manu Jara for something sweet leads to all sorts of impossible decisions, but a slice of flan is a safe bet, followed by a stroll around the neighbourhood – the perfect antidote to a generous lunch. Families stroll along the river promenade, some kayak on the water, while in the square a lone musician plays traditional Spanish music and an elderly couple spontaneously dance under the sun. It feels uncontrived, a genuine slice of life that cements Triana as the city’s heartbeat.
Markets and fresh produce
Mercado de Triana is the ideal pit stop for a chilled drink and a generous dose of local life. Stalls overflow with chacinas (cured meats), cheeses, montaditos (bite-sized sandwiches), and mariscos (shellfish).
Over in the city centre, Mercado de la Feria is perfect for fresh produce and artisanal ingredients. Oranges, olives and seafood dominate, while the cheerful cries of vendors add theatre to your browsing. Wandering here isn’t about box-ticking, it’s about soaking up the rhythm of daily Sevillano life.
Must know
Dining in Seville is a late-night affair. Arrive at 7pm, and you’ll be met largely with laughter; 8pm is tolerated, but 9-10pm is prime time. Evenings unfold slowly, and dinners stretch luxuriously over hours.
Most places offer dishes in three portion sizes – tapa, half racíon, and racíon. When ordering beer, ask for a caña (a small 200ml pour), not “una cerveza”, or you’ll get odd looks. If you want more, go for a doble. As the name suggests, it’s twice the size, twice the fun.
Must visit
In the neighbourhood of Alfalfa, La Milonga is an intimate flamenco venue, or tablao, owned by two Argentinian dancers, Charo Fernández and Julieta Santi. The one-hour show consists of a singer, dancer and guitarist performing for a maximum of 35 guests, and the atmosphere is electric. Fridays are reserved for female performers.
Set within the leafy expanse of María Luisa Park, Plaza de España is Seville’s architectural masterpiece. Created by Aníbal González for the 1929 Ibero-American Exposition, it is a vast arc of brick, tile and fountains. Its curve nods to Spain’s links with its former colonies, while a canal circles the square, crossed by four graceful bridges for each of Spain’s ancient kingdoms. The space is pure theatre, so it’s no surprise it featured in Lawrence of Arabia and Star Wars. Few squares in Europe rival its scale or splendour.
See: andalucia.org
Must-try dishes and drinks
- Jamón Ibérico: the city’s benchmark for cured ham.
- Espinacas con Garbanzos: chickpeas with spinach; earthy, modest, and perfect for a light lunch.
- Salmorejo: thicker, creamier gazpacho that is often topped with a quail egg or jamón.
- Croquetas: small béchamel-based parcels with an assortment of fillings.
- Pescaíto frito: crispy fried fish, ideal with a cold beer.
- Sherry and Vermouth: dry, nutty, herbaceous – Seville appears to be fuelled by both.
- Orange-inspired desserts and drinks: sharp and refreshing.
