As an island nation on the weather-beaten edge of Europe, it might sound a logistical challenge to go on holiday without flying. But, increasing in popularity, no-fly holidays speak to the trend of “slow travel” – taking time to enjoy the journey as well as breathe in the destination. Primarily, it helps to significantly reduce our carbon footprint.
“Even a short-haul flight within Europe emits about three times the emissions people may have saved by recycling for an entire year,” says Hans Zomer, chief executive of Global Action Plan Ireland. “By choosing rail and ferries for their international travel, people are boosting demand for those services, which has already led to new routes being opened.”
Ready to think a little differently? Here’s all you need to know about no-fly travel by ferry for your next trip.
Isle of Man
Isolated in the middle of the Irish Sea, the Isle of Man is almost within touching distance, yet a world away in culture. It’s the only entire nation to be recognised as a Unesco Biosphere Reserve, which immediately marks it out as place for the great outdoors. That’s true from the very north, where wild wallabies roam around the Curraghs; to the south, where seal colonies lie sunbathing on the shores. The island is best explored through hikes, guided walks and cycle trails, but even a stay in the ferry drop-off point and capital town of Douglas provides a fascinating insight into its culture, cuisine and Viking history.
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If you’re arriving without a car, there’s an extensive and unique public transport network of buses, steam trains, electric trams and horse trams.
Belfast to Douglas: Steam Packet; 2 hours 45 minutes (some are 4 hours 45 minutes). One way on foot from £23.50 (€27); one person and one car from £199.75 (€232).
Dublin to Douglas: Steam Packet; 2 hours 55 minutes. One way on foot from €28; two people and one car from €266.
Scotland
The quickest route off the island is from Northern Ireland to Scotland – and our Celtic cousins certainly make it worth the hop over. At the main westerly port of Cairnryan, most cars follow the scenic two-hour drive along rugged coastline to Glasgow, the youthful city full of Ronnie Mackintosh’s style of art, convivial bars and innovative restaurants. (Tip: if haggis, neeps and tatties, or okra burger sound intriguing, you’ll love Stravaigin on Gibson Street.)
From there, Scotland is yours to explore. Pick between visiting the capital of Edinburgh, or dropping by the whiskey distilleries in the Scottish islands of Jura and Islay. Take in crumbling Scottish castles, or follow a James Bond trail to Glencoe and Glen Etive. If you’re well-accustomed to Irish courses, a golf trip might even be on the cards.
It’s the scenery that will have your heart, and Scotland boasts vast swathes of islands and rural countryside to hike. Even for short trips, the port is temptingly close to the serene spot of Galloway Forest Park, with stretches of undulating hills and mirror-like lakes that bring a much-needed sense of calm and space.
Travelling without a car is easy and cheap thanks to the ScotRail train network and the inter-city bus services run by Citylink and Megabus. The Sustrans national cycle network offers stunning cycling routes.
Belfast to Cairnryan: Stena Line; 2 hours 15 minutes. One way on foot from £30 (€35); one person and one car from £119 (€138).
Larne to Cairnryan: P&O Ferries; 2 hours. One way on foot from £25 (€29); one person and one car from £150 (€174.50).
Wales
For holidaymakers, Dublin to Holyhead is the most popular ferry route across the Irish Sea, thanks to its short duration and good links to the rest of the UK.
The two ports of Fishguard and Pembroke are conveniently located to take you up the full stretch of Wales’ coast, including holiday hotspots such as Cardigan and Aberystwyth. It’s also just a 2½-hour drive to Snowdonia National Park, whose dramatic mountains are a famed challenge for hikers everywhere.
Heading away for a city break? The ports are also near Wales’ motorway for city trips to Swansea and Cardiff, both thriving cosmopolitan destinations. This route carries on to the south of England, with the quaint area of the Cotswolds, the hip city of Bristol and the historical draw of Bath and its restorative thermal waters just beyond.
For those travelling without a car, a combined SailRail ticket will save you money, from any Irish Rail station to anywhere in the UK.
Rosslare to Fishguard: Stena Lines; 3 hours 30 minutes. One way on foot from £32 (€37); one person and one car from £119 (€138.50).
Rosslare to Pembroke: Irish Ferries; 4 hours. One way on foot from €41.50; one person and one car from €149.
Dublin to Holyhead: Stena Line and Irish Ferries; 3 hours 30 minutes. One way on foot from £36 (€42); one person and one car from £129 (€150).
England
It’s a tough choice whether to arrive in the environs of Liverpool and simply stay there or move forth to the rest of England. After all, Liverpool is a destination in its own right with its Beatles legacy, Tate gallery and museum, and plenty of Premier League football action too. But so much awaits, it would be rude not to continue further inland. The first stop might be the Peak District, an hour-and-a-half away by car. It’s 1,500km of pure outdoorsy heaven, with impossible to photograph panoramas, natural springs, caves and manor houses mingled within it.
Carry on to the rest of the UK, and whether you’re after a history-filled break or a weekender to see a band who couldn’t make it over to Ireland, the rest of England is but a few hours away.
For those interested in a scenic route to Europe, cross the length of England to the southeast to catch a train. From London St Pancras, foot passengers can catch the Eurostar direct to big-draw destinations such as Amsterdam, Paris and Brussels. Or those with a vehicle can head to Folkestone, where the Channel Tunnel takes just 35 minutes to drop off you and your car to Calais, ready for your onward journey.
Belfast to Liverpool Birkenhead: Stena Line; 8 hours. One way on foot from £37 (€43); one person and one car from £129 (€150). On-board you’ll find a bar, restaurant, en suite cabins and lounges.
Dublin to Liverpool: P&O Ferries; 8 hours. One way for one person and one car from €99, with two meals included.
France
Whether you land in the Normandy port of Cherbourg or Brittany’s town of Roscoff, France is the most common option when travelling onwards to the rest of Europe. To reach the border countries of Spain, Italy, Switzerland, Germany, Luxembourg or Belgium, it’s a long drive, but otherwise no hardship – especially as it means stopping off at rustic villages and perhaps the odd chateau serving haute cuisine and fine wines.
Even those who stay closer to the port are in for a treat. Normandy is full of sights such as Mont Saint-Michel, an ornate abbey towering atop a high-tide island, and the Bayeux Tapestry, a lengthy artwork depicting medieval life in fascinating detail.
In Brittany, a fiercely independent region of France, you’ll want to slow down, kick back and experience rustic French living at its finest. Nowhere is that attitude to life more evident than its honest cooking. You’ll find superior ingredients such as Roscoff onions and local root vegetables within popular Breton dishes such as galettes de bretagne (buckwheat pancakes with savoury toppings) and cotriade, an aromatic fish stew.
If you’re travelling on foot, Cherbourg and Roscoff are both on the rail network.
Dublin to Cherbourg: Irish Ferries; 19 hours. One way on foot from €66; one person and one car from €217.
Rosslare to Cherbourg: Brittany Ferries and Stena Line; 18 hours. One way on foot from €49; one person and one car from €135.
Cork to Roscoff: Brittany Ferries; 14 hours. One way on foot from €49; one person and one car from €135.
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Spain
It might take over a day to sail to Bilbao but once on dry land you can begin your Spanish odyssey in the heart of the action – with Santander one side of you, San Sebastián on the other, and the capital of Madrid a four-hour drive away.
Direct high-speed trains travel from Bilbao to Madrid and Barcelona, and there are bus connections to all over Spain. If you’ve time, cross the border into Portugal to see another side of Iberian life. Porto is a seven-hour drive from Bilbao, though surely you’ll want to maximise your tapas time en route.
Most crossings will take place over summer, thanks to the allure of the perfect heat and enticing beaches, but even in winter it’s a strong option for a no-fly ski break due to the nearby Pyrenees.
Rosslare to Bilbao: Brittany Ferries; 28 hours 45 minutes. One way on foot from €93; one person and one car from €183.
Self-drive and cruise holidays from Ireland
For structured, hassle-free holidays set up by destination experts, with all your transport and accommodation booked for you, pick from a number of cruise or self-drive holidays that depart from Ireland.
Gastronomic delights in northern Spain
All aboard the ferry from Rosslare – and bring your car for this self-drive holiday. After winding down en route – you might take a dip in the swimming pool or catch a movie in the on-board cinema – spend eight days eating your way around the northern coast of Spain. You’ll dock at Bilbao, where you can sample its renowned restaurants bursting with the flavour of local, fresh ingredients. Then drive along the scenic coast, stopping for photos at the dramatic islet of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe, and lunch at one of the many fishing villages along the way, where the catch of the day will be fresh off the boat. The next evening, you’ll join the group for a pintxos crawl of San Sebastián’s best spots. The final stop is La Rioja where, you guessed it, it’s all about the wine. It’s the perfect time to fill your (car) boots.
Departs from Rosslare; €989 per person (based on two adults sharing) including return ferry with cabin, three-star hotels and San Sebastián walking tour; trailfinders.ie
Chateaux of the Loire Valley, France
Combine spectacular countryside, haute cuisine and remarkable architecture into one memorable seven-night self-drive holiday – all without catching a flight. This cruise departs from Cork and arrives into Roscoff the next day. Disembarking with your car, follow the river Loire down to Saumur, France’s lesser-known destination for sparkling wine. You’ll have plenty of time to explore the rustic surrounds, including the medieval castle of Château de Saumur and the historic village of Doué-la-Fontaine, before setting off again. The next spectacles are Château de Villandry and Château d’Ussé, the castle believed to have inspired Charles Perrault’s Sleeping Beauty. And there are even more chateaux to see at your overnight destination of Amboise, including Château du Clos Lucé, Leonardo da Vinci’s home in the last years of his life. Round off the trip at Chambord, where Château de Chambord stands as a feat of both French gothic and Italian Renaissance architecture – a fitting finale indeed.
Departs from Cork; €729 per person sharing including return ferry with cabin and four-star hotels; trailfinders.ie
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Historic trails and wilderness in the Scottish isles
Spend eight nights of pure luxury on-board the premium Scenic Eclipse ship while sailing past rugged cliffs and around remote islands in Scotland. Departing from Dublin, the first stop is Portrush to visit the Giant’s Causeway, after which you’ll cross the Irish Sea. You’ll get the best of what the coast of Scotland has to offer with visits to Oban, Fort William, Sound of Mull, Isle of Skye, St Kilda, Stromness, Aberdeen and Leith. The cruise will do the hard work and logistics, so spend your energy on the action-packed days on land. You can join a cèilidh, take a whiskey tour or several, hike hills and explore the isolated Outer Hebrides for starters.
Departs from Dublin on June 7th, 2024. From €7,545 per person sharing. Trip includes cabin on the Scenic Eclipse, meals, drinks, on-board entertainment and staff gratuities; travelescapes.ie
Iberian northern Africa escape
Over the course of 13 nights, snake your way southwards down Europe from Belfast on this cruise, stopping in the UK, Spain and Portugal before reaching Casablanca in Morocco. It’s a chance to witness how Europe changes in its culture, food and architecture as it shifts in latitude. You’ll stop off at must-see cities such as Liverpool (where more holidaymakers will board), Cádiz and Lisbon, as well as lesser-known destinations such as La Coruña in Spain (see if you can make out its Celtic heritage). On days at sea, you’ll have plenty to keep you occupied: spend time in the two restaurants, four bars, theatre, casino, library or craft studio, or simply lounge by the pools.
Departs from Belfast on August 20th. From €1,949 per person sharing. Trip includes cabin accommodation, meals and on-board entertainment; travelescapes.ie
Culture, coasts and cuisine across the Pyrenees
This nine-night self-drive voyage begins at Rosslare and takes in the best of southern France and northern Spain – both known for their buzzing cities that go big on culture and cuisine. The beachy heaven of San Sebastián is the destination of the ferry, from there it’s a road trip to Biarritz in France, where you can soak up the sun and the surfing vibes. Head back into Spain to visit the medieval city of Pamplona, as the capital of Spain’s Navarre region, it’s crammed full of history and incredible architecture. The last stop is Bilbao, home of the Guggenheim Museum, whose architecture is also as artful as the world-famous works within it.
Departs from Rosslare. From £1,015 per person sharing including return ferry with cabin and three- or four-star hotels; trailfinders.ie
