MY DAY

Ben Bennett , surf instructor, Lahinch, Co Clare

Ben Bennett, surf instructor, Lahinch, Co Clare

THE FIRST thing I do every morning is go outside and check the swell. Depending on the size of the waves and the direction of the wind, I'll know which beaches I need to go to for my classes that day.

I'm up by 7.30am, and I have to have a good breakfast - usually Weetabix and fruit - because you need something hearty to set you up for a day in the water.

Then I sort through all the kit needed for the day and hit the beach. My students arrive at 9.30am. I only take up to six at a time, so I can give them all enough attention.

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They range from 18 to 50 years throughout the year, but with many more kids during the summer.

My main focus is on those who have bought their own kit and haven't progressed much since then, but I teach everyone from total beginners to advanced surfers.

By 10am I'm in the water, paddling round or helping people stand up on the surfboards.

We stay in for the next two and a half hours before heading to the local surfers' pub, Kenny's, for lunch and a chance to warm up.

I also use the lunch break to go over surfing theory with the surfers while they get a chance to rest.

It's the wet suit that keeps you warm - that's why surfing beaches can be just as full on a January weekend as they are during the summer.

The great thing about surfing is that it is such an all-weather sport. When it's windy and raining it's not much fun on the golf course, but it's no problem for us.

After lunch we're back in the water for another two and a half hours. We finish up at around 5pm and have a debrief about what we learned.

I usually have my tea then in the back of my van, a Ford Transit. It's usually sandwiches, fruit and chocolate - anything that gives you energy. Bananas are particularly good.

Depending on the conditions, I might have an evening lesson. If I don't, I'll go surfing myself. People say I surf all day, but, actually, I'm in the water all day. It's only when the classes finish that I get to go surfing myself. The real test of motivation is whether I still want to after a day's teaching, and I always do.

I'm not sure career-wise how things will pan out. Most people who surf long-term tend to go on to set up surf shops. I've been doing a master's in sports psychology, and I love the teaching element of what I do. I'll always surf, though. It's challenging and relaxing at the same time.

Last night, for about 15 minutes at sunset, the sea was burned red and totally calm, and just beautiful. Then a huge wave rolled up out of nowhere. You can never beat nature, so you're always working to get better and better - that's the challenge.

When I'm finished surfing - usually when it's getting dark - I head home for a big feed of pasta and bread, starving. I check my e-mails and next day's weather. Then I'll just veg for an hour. My students hit the pub, but I don't. I'll be in bed by 11pm, exhausted.