Croagh Patrick is easy to get on to but tough to conquer, writes Harry McGee
A GOOD FEW years ago a former colleague was sitting in a bar in north Galway one Saturday evening in July. From the altitude of his counter stool he and a couple of friends watched the news.
One of the reports said that pilgrims were beginning to converge on Croagh Patrick, as Reek Sunday was the following day. "Well wouldn't that be a mighty thing to do," remarked one of them as a conversation opener.
Before they knew it the four men were driving from Abbeyknockmoy to Westport and on to the hamlet of Murrisk. They arrived in the middle of the night to see the path up the mountain illuminated by torchlight. Arrah, it's not too bad, my friend thought dreamily as he followed the necklace of torches to the top; we'll be back in north Galway in a couple of hours.
He was sorely mistaken. It became an epic struggle, taking many hours. Daylight had long broken by their return. Their plight wasn't helped by their poor fitness, their ballast - a good few pints of porter in their bellies - and clothes more suited to a city stroll. "'Twas endless. I swore I'd never climb another mountain," said my friend, who was as true as his word after that.
No mountain in Ireland is easier to get on to than Croagh Patrick. And if the day is nice it is enticingly beautiful, no matter which angle you come at it from. It stands southwest of Westport in glorious isolation, its conical summit never bested by any other piece of the landscape.
It is, however, a longer walk than most people think - seven kilometres up and back from the car park. And, unlike most other mountains, where you start the climb at an altitude, you earn nearly all of Croagh Patrick's 764m in vertical height. It's also steeper, much steeper, especially near the top, and, to top it all, is dog rough underfoot. Sprains and breaks are common, and there have been serious injuries.
The cautionary note is not to dissuade but to warn, especially if you are not a regular walker. Don't underestimate the challenge; wear sturdy shoes with proper grips, wear layers, bring a rain jacket, snacks and water; and give yourself more time than you think you'll need.
Part of the attraction of Croagh Patrick is its status as a holy mountain. On the final Sunday in July upwards of 40,000 people climb it to do penance, some in their bare feet (it's excruciating). There are stations along the way, and the summit architecture includes a sizeable chapel and Leaba Phádraig, or St Patrick's Bed. Legend has it that St Patrick spent 40 days and nights warding off evil on the mountain.
The walk follows the very well worn track due south to a saddle, then west-southwest for about a kilometre, along the relatively flat Cosán Phádraig, before starting on the very steep haul up the scree to the summit. The final leg is tough going, very steep and loose underfoot, bringing you due north for about 100 metres before veering west again for the final approach to the top.
If the day is clear the views are astonishing: Clew Bay, with its many islands, Achill, Clare Island, the Sheffreys, Mweelrea, the Partrys, the sweep of the Atlantic.
To descend, retrace your steps to the car park.
Croagh Patrick, Co Mayo
Start and finishMurrisk, eight kilometres southwest of Westport.
DistanceSeven kilometres on a rough, eroded and sometimes very steep path.
TimeBetween two and five hours, depending on fitness.
MapsOrdnance Survey Discovery sheet 30.
Best aspect of the walkStunning views; easy access.
SuitabilityIt's not a doddle. Go properly equipped.
AccommodationThe Wyatt Hotel, Westport.
End-of-walk pit stopCampbell's Bar at the foot of the mountain; Matt Molloy's in Westport.