Donegal: An insiders’ guide to food, activities, wilderness and walks

For most of my younger life, Donegal felt faraway and remote, at the end of long drives on bad roads. Thanks to the EU's road-improvement largesse, the county feels closer – but thankfully still no less remote. It's the dramatic wildness of it all, a landscape of bare peaks and lonely valleys wrapped in a filigreed coastline of stunning headlands and remote beaches that, depending on the weather, can feel like paradise on earth or the end of the world.

Donegal's best-known getaway is the hurdy-gurdy resort of Bundoran, all amusement arcades and fun zones, and fish and chips. But Bundoran is also a surfing hotspot, with the best of them trying their luck on the Peak, a break directly in front of the town. Less experienced surfers should stick to the still-wonderful Tullan Strand, 2.5km north of town and reached via the scenic Roguey Cliff Walk.

While Bundoran has no shortage of fast-food options, recommended is The Salty Fox on Tullan Strand, which does delicious cakes, toasties and coffee – strictly as takeaway. Not far from here is Foam (foambundoran.com), which serves up equally good coffee along with pulled-pork sandwiches, dhal and veggie sausage rolls.

Ireland's most impressive sea cliffs? They're just around the coastline at Sliabh Liag: park up just beyond Teelin and hike the rough path (a 10km round trip) up to One Man's Pass, a narrow ridge that has you atop the 600m cliffs. You can hike along the clifftop from Carrick via the Pilgrim Path – it's a 12km walk for which you should allow at least four hours.

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Spectacular cliffs

Alternatively, the cliffs are even more spectacular when seen from below, aboard the Nuala Star (sliabhleagueboattrips.com), which you can board at Teelin Pier.

The drive north along the coast takes you through the Glengesh Pass, between Glencolumbkille and Ardara, a set of scenic switchbacks that would have you nearly convinced you were in the Alps. There's lots of pull-over points to take in the views, while in Ardara you can buy a proper pullover (ahem): highly recommended is Eddie Doherty's studio (handwoventweed.com) on Main St; he's usually around to explain how the famous Donegal tweeds and woollens are made. And when you're done, a pint in Nancy's is a must; it also serves superb chowder and there's often traditional music.

Northwest of here are Donegal's offshore islands: Arranmore, all high cliffs and sandy beaches, is easily reached by ferry from Burtonport and can be explored via the stirring Arranmore Way, a 14km circular path around the island; and Tory Island, reached from Magheroarty, is Ireland's most remote inhabited island. The waymarked loop walk leads you to the island's lighthouse at the eastern end – look out for the stunning Tor Mór, a 400m-long blade of pinnacle-capped rock.

One of my favourite spots in all of Ireland is the Poisoned Glen, a desolate glen about 2km east of Dunlewey; there's a 4km path that brings you to the beautifully ruined church overlooking a lough – it's one of the best photo ops in a county that is crammed with them, with the lake and the distinctive shape of Mount Errigal in the distance. The best route to the summit starts at a parking spot on the R251 just east of Dunlewey. It takes about a three-hour round trip, but keep an eye on the weather, which can change quickly.

Next to Dunlewey is the wide expanse of Glenveagh National Park, Ireland's second-largest, a stunning collection of forested valleys and shimmering lakes overlooked by broody mountains; at the heart of it is the Balmoral-inspired castle (glenveaghnationalpark.ie), surrounded by exotic gardens.

One-street village

For a change of scene, Dunfanaghy is the ticket – a one-street village stretched out alongside the huge expanse of blue-flag Killahoey strand. But all the action takes place 5km from here at Marble Hill, which is really two beaches and also where you'll find great coffee at The Shack (shackcoffee.ie) and delicious ice-cream at Simply De Vine. (For something more substantial, there's The Cove and Rusty's Pizza, in an open courtyard at the back of Patsy Dan's Bar.)

Further west is magnificent Inishowen, one of Europe's most beautiful corners bar none. The headland is dotted with glorious beaches – I love the ones at Culdaff (where you can also windsurf), Stroove (northeast of Moville) and Kinnagoe Bay (near Carrowmenagh).

Not far from Stroove, in Greencastle, is the excellent Kealy's Seafood Bar (kealysseafoodbar.ie); grab a chowder or fish and chips and sit out on the terrace overlooking the harbour.

Follow the peninsula right around and you'll get to Ireland's northernmost point at Malin Head; here is Banba's Crown, from which on a clear day you can see right around the coastline – on a few cold nights you can even spot the northern lights. To the west a path leads about 700m to Hell's Hole, an eye-catching chasm in the rock that leaves nothing but air between you and the crashing waters of the Atlantic.

During summer, the three-wheeler Caffe Banba (caffebanba.com) is parked up along here, dispensing coffees and cakes.

Other food truck options worth seeking out are Foodie Campers (@foodiecampers on Instagram), on the quay in Ramelton, which serves tasty fish tacos; and Johnny's Ranch (@johnnysranchramelton), right on the banks of the Lennon river – chef Johnny serves Killybegs-caught fish and chips and the tastiest burgers made from Lennonside beef.