THOMAS BREATHNACHvisits Ballybur Castle, Co Kilkenny
IRELAND HAS MORE castles than you could shake a shillelagh at, which is probably why we tend to take them for granted. I’m about to buck the trend. I’m on my way to Ballybur Castle, just outside Cuff’s Grange, in Co Kilkenny, which a group of us are renting for the weekend.
Driving along the byroads of the area has an element of mystery when I know my destination is a 16th-century tower house. As I roll down the quiet cul de sac I catch a glimpse of light from the castle’s slit windows through the hedgerow. Then, when I pull into the parking area, the castle and its five stories of majesty are revealed.
A hefty knock on the robust front door yields no response, so I scoot around the tower to find the back entrance and my friends, who have already arrived. I’m greeted with a glass of champagne and looks that say, Isn’t this amazing?
First on my list is a tour of the castle. I bring my drink, as this may take a while. The ground floor, formerly a cellar, is now a kitchen that fuses the Middle Ages with modernity. Mugs, cauldrons and platters hang over a cast-iron hearth, but there’s also an array of state-of-the-art appliances.
A spiral staircase is the only way to get to the other floors. In medieval times many staircases had varying step heights, so that invading attackers would lose their footing. Fortunately, Ballybur’s owners chose caution over authenticity when restoring this section.
The castle, which has three bedrooms, sleeps between eight and 12 people, such is the size of the master bedroom. It has three beds, including a four-poster with linen curtains. The two other bedrooms are equally charming; one, which used to be a chapel, retains a monastic atmosphere.
A huge chandelier hangs in the dining room. Both it and the blazing fire in the medieval fireplace illuminate the features of the room, such as the cushioned pews that line the big oak dining table.
The baronial drawing room on the top floor is perhaps the finest room of all, its ornate stained-glass windows showing images of the Middle Ages in marvellous shades of cobalt and amber.
Tour over, it is time to catch up with my friends. We gather in the intimacy of the kitchen, where the castle and its history fuel our banter.
Our welcome guide recounts the building’s torrid history: the castle was built in about 1588 by Richard Comerford, an Anglo-Irish judge and powerful landowner, to protect himself and his family from attackers. The family held it for more than 60 years, until the Cromwellian land settlement, when Comerford was banished to Connaught. His land was granted to Bryan Mansergh, an ancestor of the politician Martin Mansergh.
The current owners are the Gray family, who are responsible for restoring Ballybur to its former glory, albeit with a few modern comforts thrown in.
As the evening rolls on we adjourn to the drawing room. Playing catch-up – and playing Twister – while drinking champagne in front of a crackling log fire, you get a true sense of what life may have been like in medieval Ireland.
When it’s eventually time to turn in we’re all eager to try out those luxury beds – electric blankets provided, as old buildings can get very nippy. The porous limestone walls, which absorb outside moisture, are not the best blockade against a chilly, windy night, so our slumber is somewhat disrupted.
When morning arrives I climb to the top of the castle, to the ramparts. The farmland and forestry extending out before me contrast with Slievenamon, in the distance.
As I make my way down to the kitchen I hear a cry of “I’ve found another one!” One of my friends has come across a fourth bathroom. One of the exciting things about staying in the castle is that there’s always some chamber or passage waiting to be discovered behind an inconspicuous curtain.
Once breakfast is over it’s time to stock up. We could shop in nearby Callan but decide, in keeping with the medieval theme, to take a spin into Kilkenny. We meander through the narrow streets, ticking off our grocery list in the process. Try as we may, all the butchers are out of suckling pig, so we settle on some deliciously fresh chickens, which we decide to stuff with fennel. Then it’s back to Ballybur.
Our evening meal, with goblets aclanging, rounds off a wonderful time. Ballybur is a great destination if you’re interested in old Irish culture as well as in comfort.
While renting a castle in the current climate may seem a little ostentatious, we found the rate of €1,200 for three nights quite reasonable between eight of us. And you’d never get that kind of history lesson from a Travelodge.
WhereBallybur Castle, Cuff's Grange, Co Kilkenny, 087-0505668, www.ballyburcastle.com.
WhatLuxury self-catering accommodation, also available for weddings, corporate meetings or exhibitions. Catering can be arranged.
How much€1,200 in high season for up to eight people for two nights, or €1,500 for three nights (plus €100 per additional guest, to a maximum of 12). A week costs €1,800- €2,200 for up to eight people.
TipsBring warm clothing, especially in cold weather. Spiral staircase a hazard for some guests; this, plus hard surfaces, makes the castle unsuitable for young children.