Its dukes once made Burgundy a big-time European power, so there's plenty of history to sample. But the area's real strength is making fine wine – and the food to go with it, writes MAL ROGERS
SEVENTY-FIVE per cent of wine bought in Ireland is consumed within four hours of leaving the shop. After a somewhat overly long lunch at La Gentilhommière, a restaurant in Nuits-St-Georges, I nodded knowingly at this information. I gazed blearily around at some of the most famous vineyards in the world, then took another generous sip of my excellent 1986 Chardonnay. I nodded again. It would explain a lot, I concluded.
Here in Burgundy, in something of a contrast to our imbibing habits, wine is barely considered drinkable until it has been cellared for a year or so. There seems to be no tradition of ripping bottles from a supermarket bag and glugging it down.
This corner of eastern France is arguably the greatest wine region in the world. Even if you’ve never wondered why Philip the Bold should have banned the Gamay grape in the 14th century, coming down firmly on the side of Pinot Noir, Burgundy still has a seductive pull. Equally geared towards the would-be expert, the amateur plonkeur or those who would indolently indulge in some rare vintages, Burgundy also boasts some of the most beguiling scenery in France. The oenophile and the casual tourist both have at their disposal the legendary Côte d’Or, a 50km stretch of vineyards south of Dijon that produces some of the most extravagantly prized wines on the planet.
In an attempt to learn why the best red burgundy is (nearly) all about that one grape, I based myself at the vineyards of Bernard Hudelot, in the village of Villars-Fontaine. Happily, in addition to discussing grape expectations, M Hudelot can provide accommodation in the cultured comfort of his chateau.
Vineyards stretch in every direction over the lush green hills of Vallée de l’Ouche. Pinot Noir as far as the eye can see. The duke of Burgundy would have gazed over these same vine-stitched meadows way back in the 14th century, and he too would have nodded wisely, satisfied that he’d done right by the world of wine.
Likewise Bernard, of course. (We’d dropped the M Hudelot quite a few glasses back.) In his tasting room, opening bottle after bottle of various vintages, Bernie outlined the varieties of grape used in the region: Pinot Noir for red, Chardonnay for white, plus a little Aligoté and Gamay.
As we moved through rows of dusty vintages laid down decades ago I spotted a 1972 bottle. “Ah, round about the year of my birth,” I said, somewhat speculatively. Bernard looked surprised, then, recovering from his quizzical frown, he delightedly said, “We must open it, then!” And very good it was, too. Later I confessed that it was 1972 plus VAT, duty, tax and more.
Afternoon tea at the chateau is gougères– choux-pastry cheese puffs – with tuna mousse and the favourite cheese of the area, Époisses. Life dealt me a somewhat unfair hand – three aces and Mr Bun the Baker – so I tucked in, accompanied by a 1977 Les Genevrières Chardonnay (yours for €20 a bottle). "It's a wine that will look after you," said Bernie before pointing us in the direction of the best restaurant in the village for dinner.
Next day, despite a slight sluggishness among our party, we had a pressing appointment at a monastery. Château du Clos de Vougeot has been producing wine since the 12th century, and its enormous Heath Robinsonesque oak wine presses remain in use. Cistercian monks were among the biggest producers of wine in the Middle Ages – multinationals before the word was invented.
At Clos de Vougeot, one of the largest single vineyards in Burgundy, the production of its wine is demonstrated. It’s not exactly gripping; the real joy is to see the glorious monastic buildings, set in equally magnificent surroundings.
Today the Cistercians’ chateau looks extraordinarily impressive. In the Middle Ages it must have appeared miraculous, a beacon of eternity in the midst of a temporary world of wooden huts.
Clos de Vougeot is the home of a phoney chivalrous order founded in 1934, the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin. Fake or not, it seems certain it could organise a soiree in a brewery, and its wine tastes all the better among the trappings of faux but fun nobility. You can tell it's a spoof brotherhood from its punning motto: " Jamais en vain, toujours en vin." A real brotherhood would have a proper Latin motto, such as " Semper blotto".
But now it’s time to go to school.
For more formal instruction in wine production and tasting you should present yourself at the Burgundy Wine School in Beaune (L’École des Vins de Bourgogne, 6 Rue du 16ème Chasseurs, 00-33-3-80263510, burgundy-wines.fr). Jean-Pierre Renard, our lecturer, gave us a brief description of the main wine-growing areas of Burgundy: the great Chablis area, not forgetting the village of Chardonnay, east to the Chatillonais region and south to the great Mâconnais lands, bordering the Beaujolais vineyards.
Now this next bit is good; you may want to take notes. The natural product of the grape is vinegar. So you need a lot of human intervention to bring it to wine – many cunning schemes to turn sunshine and grapes into happiness.
After learning the finer points of tasting, you’ll be taken on a field trip to see what makes the Burgundy lands so special for viniculture: the climate, the terrain, the geology, the grape variety. All you need is a draining soil, two hot sunny months in the summer and, somewhat surprisingly, a cold winter, to help “allow the vines to rest”, according to J-P. “You need the right climate, but at the right time.” Which is why Ireland doesn’t do too well with grapes: a couple of warm days in November plus horizontal rain in July just doesn’t add up.
But you don’t need to attend any of the myriad workshops or courses available throughout the region. Merely take a tour on your own through the vineyards – by car, bicycle or taxi – along the Route des Grand Crus. This stretches south from Marsannay down to Beaune and beyond to Chassagne-Montrachet. Home to the world’s finest and most expensive Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vines, the route passes through monumentally beautiful villages with famous wine names such as Chalon-sur-Saône, Chambolle-Musigny and Nuits-St-Georges.
Each of these villages has an establishment – usually several – where you can sample the local produce. In Phillipe Senard's restaurant in Aloxe-Corton the place mats are maps of the locality. Two wines are served with each course. Our starter, a pâté en croute, came with a robust Savigny-les-Beaune Premier Cru Les Verglesses and a very cheeky Aloxe-Corton Premier Cru Les Valozières.
The waitress who served us these elegant vintages pointed out on our place mat exactly which nearby slopes the wine had come from. As a dining experience this was as far removed from my local cafe in Dundalk as was possible to imagine.
The Route des Grands Crus eventually arrives in Beaune. A visit to the Hospices de Beaune – holder of a renowned annual charity wine auction – is essential, even if you’re not feeling poorly. With its colourful zigzag roof tiles and breathtaking courtyard, this is not just one of the iconic views of Burgundy; it’s one of the earliest hospitals in the world. Founded in 1443 by the chancellor of Burgundy as a refuge for the poor and needy, the original building, the Hôtel-Dieu, is one of the finest examples of 15th-century French architecture.
Old Beaune is surrounded by ancient fortifications. Inside, a formidable array of restaurants is devoted to tickling your palate: prepare for entrees such as foie gras,
France’s best snails or oysters in Chablis jelly.
All washed down with the pick of the region’s wines.
For years the Cistercians ensured Burgundy was the epicentre of Christendom. Meanwhile the dukes of Burgundy, those dangerous cousins of the kings of France, turned it into a big-time European power. But in the long run it all proved too much bother, and Burgundy returned to what it did best: fine wining and dining.
This land of Charolais beef, Dijon mustard, market stalls heavy with fruit from the Hautes Côtes hills and vineyards stretching as far as the bloodshot eye can see proceeded to prove it was better at cuisine and viniculture than just about anywhere else in the world.
So relax in the immaculately tended grounds of some glorious chateau, enjoy the sunshine on your face, raise a glass of Chardonnay to the dukes of Burgundy and be suffused with this sumptuous land.
Where to stay, where to eat, and how to get to: Burgandy
Go There
Aer Lingus (aerlingus.com) flies to Lyons from Dublin. Lyons is about two hours from Burgundy by car, or about an hour from Dijon by train (tgv-europe.com). Beaune is also served by train from Lyons and Paris.
Where to stay
Château le Pré aux Dames. Château de Villars-Fontaine, 00-33-3-80623194, lepreauxdames.com. Creaking stairs, sloping floorboards and views across Burgundy make this an enchanting place to stay. Doubles from €90 to €150 per night.
L'Abbaye de la Bussière. La Bussière-sur-Ouche, Dijon, 00-33-3-80490229, abbayedelabussiere.fr. This stylish retreat, formerly a Cistercian monastery, comes with stained-glass windows, spiral staircases and a lightness of touch. Those boys in habits knew how to live. Doubles from about €175.
Château-Hôtel André Ziltener. Rue de la Fontaine, Chambolle-Musigny, 00-33-3-8062-4162, chateau-ziltener.com. Built in the 18th century on a former Cistercian abbey, the hotel has 10 rooms. I need hardly add that an extensive wine cellar is on hand. Doubles from €220.
Hôtel Le Cep. 27 Rue Maufoux, Beaune, 00-33-3-8022-3548, hotel-cep-beaune.com. This collection of 14th- to 18th-century buildings (with a 16th-century courtyard) evokes medieval France. But it hasn't stinted on modern luxuries. They know how to make you say Janey Mac here. Doubles cost €168.
Where to eat
Le Bistrot Bourguignon.8 Rue Monge, Beaune, 00-33-3-80222324, restaurant-lebistrot bourguignon.com. Specialises in hours-fresh produce deftly sculpted into contemporary and traditional dishes. Just as impressive is its gawp-inducing wine list.
Auberge du Côteaux. 2 Route Côte de Nuits, Villars- Fontaine, 00-33-3-80611050. A character-packed restaurant. Locations don't get much more romantic than this. If romance isn't on your agenda, try the oeufs en meurette (poached eggs in a heavy wine sauce, which will more than compensate. Honestly.
La Gentilhommière.13 Vallée de la Serrée, Nuits-St-Georges, 00-33-3-80611206, lagentilhommiere.fr. If even the locals tell you a restaurant is top of the prandial pile here, then you can take it as read. The deep-fried breaded brie with rosemary and garlic brioche gives La Gentilhommière game, set and match.
La Table a Domaine Senard.1 Rue des Chaumes, Aloxe-Corton, 00-33-3- 80264165, justburgundy.com/ restaurant_senard.php. Converted farm buildings with bin after bin of wine bottles from several vineyards in Aloxe-Corton that make up the domaine's holdings. The food is predictably delicious. As Phillipe Senard puts it: "Wine is for accompanying food. That is its main purpose."
Mal Rogers was a guest of Bureau Interprofessionnel des Vins de Bourgogne. bourgogne-tourisme.com