GO WALK:Walking the Tipperary hills is easy, and knowing that the landowners don't object to your presence adds to the feel-good factor, writes John G O'Dwyer
WHILE ACCESS problems bedevil many of our upland areas, the Tipperary hills are notable for a harmonious relationship between landowners and walkers.
Nowhere is this more apparent than in the upland village of Upperchurch, where an innovative walking route being piloted in the area runs entirely across privately-owned farmland. Given full freedom of access by 23 local farmers, this easy but captivating loop meanders through meadows wealthy with wild flowers and bridleways filled with birdsong and the evocative aromas of the countryside.
For this is a corner of Ireland where the environmental mischief-making of the Common Agricultural Policy never really built up a head of steam. The timeless landscape of small fields, luxuriant hedgerows and diverse habitats has somehow survived the onslaught of globalised food production. And in this laid-back environment a chance encounter with a farmer is a welcome event. Treat it as an opportunity to discover something about the folklore of the area and the renowned Upperchurch welcome will be yours for the taking.
Eamonn a Chnoic was a legendary rapparee who, in the best Robin Hood tradition, won everlasting gratitude from the native population by championing the cause of dispossessed locals and harassing foreign planters. To follow the loop named in his honour, take the road from Upperchurch that passes the village hall and soon-to-be- completed community childcare facility. After about 10 minutes you reach a bridge. Use the stile on your right to enter a field and climb gently through a series of meadows with linking stiles. At the crest of the ascent you emerge on a roadway and go left.
After 100m, divert right on to a track and then cross a stile to join a green road that leads towards a forest where you turn right. Continue along the forest edge, looking out for traces of a fulacht fia (a prehistoric cooking pit) on your right.
After 500m you join a lane that takes you downhill by the right-hand side of a house to a public road. Go left here, following the tarmacadam for 300m before turning right at a small hay barn. Now follow a green road until the route crosses a stile and takes the edge of a young plantation. When you reach the end of the plantation turn right and descend by the side of a fence to reach yet another laneway.
Soon you go left from this laneway, but rejoin it after 200m before crossing a number of small watercourses and exiting on a public road where the route swings left.
After 100m the loop enters a laneway on the right. At the end of the laneway, you climb over a stile and cross a field to reach Church Bog which is being developed by the local community as a wildlife habitat.
Leave the bog via the wooden gate to the public road, turn left and enjoy a pleasant 300m stroll back to Upperchurch village.
• Upperchurch Hillwalking Festival, with enjoyable walking and a great atmosphere, takes place on November 7th, 8th and 9th. 0504-54443, info@upperchurch.ie
• For more loop walks around the country, see www.discover ireland.ie/walking
Upperchurch, Co Tipperary
• Starting pointFrom Thurles follow the R498 (Nenagh road) for two and a half kilometres. At a junction for Limerick take the R503 for 13 kilometres to a crossroads with a finger sign (right) for Upperchurch. The village is 500m from here.
• Time/distanceThe loop is about eight kilometres in length and should be comfortably completed in about two and a half hours.
• SuitabilityThe Eamonn a Chnoic Loop is generally unstrenuous, traversing minor roads, laneways and fields, with just 150m of ascent. The route is muddy in places, however, so walking boots are essential. It is also prudent to bring warm clothing and, of course, raingear. Also remember the walk crosses worked agricultural land, so leave the dog at home, don't disturb farm animals and generally try to minimise your visit's environmental footprint.
• Accommodation and foodOvernight accommodation is available at Murray's Pub (0504-54356), located in Upperchurch village. Across the road, Kinane's pub is renowned for the quality of its cuisine. You need to book a meal in advance at 0504-54284. Otherwise, the large town of Thurles nearby offers ample accommodation and dining facilities.
• MapOrdnance Survey Ireland Discovery Series sheet 59. Outline maps of the loop walk are available from Upperchurch Community Centre (0504-54443).