GREAT IRISH DRIVES:Greatly improved road conditions mean the Sky Road in Clifden is now most definitely a route worth taking, writes BOB MONTGOMERY
SOME FIVE years ago when I began this series, the Sky Road just north of Clifden was one of the first I planned to include.
But sadly, when I went to drive the route, I found that the condition of the road surface was such that I could not recommend it – particularly as stretches of the route are quite narrow and twist up and down over blind crests so as to provide what can be, at times, a very challenging drive.
Well, the Sky Road is still a challenging drive, with its blind crests and narrow sections, but I’m pleased to report that the road surface is no longer a problem and this spectacular road can be explored without fear of potholes.
Clifden, the “capital of Connemara”, is the ideal starting point for our exploration of the Sky Road route. It may come as a surprise to readers to learn that Clifden was only founded as recently as 1812 by local landowner John d’Arcy who laid out its broad main streets.
Just outside the town’s northern edge is the start of the Sky Road, off the main N59. The Sky Road itself runs inland a short distance from the coast of Clifden Bay but it is possible to drive along a lower, narrower road that hugs closer to the coastline.
I would recommend taking the higher road that climbs quickly out of Clifden and almost immediately provides spectacular views over the bay and back towards Clifden. As the road heads roughly northeast, the hills of Fakeeragh (107m) and Gortrumnagh (174m) screen the view to the north.
To the south and to the west there is much to see: on a good, clear day, the Alcock and Brown Monument, which marks the spot where the intrepid aviators tried to land in what they thought was a “broad Irish meadow” at the end of their historic 1919 flight (but which turned out to be wet marshy land); and several islands, including Turbot, Inishturk and Cruagh and the isthmus of Ardmore.
All too soon, the Sky Road begins to turn, first north and then east, to begin its journey back to join the N59. On this side of the peninsula, the road is bounded by Streamstown Bay.
For those with an interest in the history of this landscape, there are numerous Megalithic Tombs, as well as a Promotorory Fort near the Ardmore isthmus – and perhaps two kilometres from the start of this drive is the entrance to the ruins of Clifden Castle which was once the residence of the aforementioned d’Arcy family.
Now just a shell, it was built in the style of a Gothic mansion, complete with towers, turrets and crenellations.
By the time that the road starts to run beside a broadened-out Streamstown Bay, the best of the scenery is past and little more of interest remains on the route – apart, that is, from a small and attractive stone bridge about one-and-a-half kilometres before the route rejoins the main N59 road once more.
This is an interesting route that provides spectacular views over some of the best scenery on the western seaboard, particularly in the first part of the journey. However, a note of caution.
This section of the route is narrow in places and it is in these narrow sections that it is at its most winding, with several blind brows that require caution.