Argentina's Malbecs can be surprise stars
I was discussing a top Argentine Malbec with Erik Robson, who with his wife, Michelle, owns the Ely chain of Dublin restaurants, when he asked if I had ever tasted a Malbec aged for a couple of decades or more. This seemed a bit of a trick question. Malbec has been acclaimed only relatively recently in its adopted homeland - indeed, about 30 years ago there was a strong movement to pull up Argentina's Malbec vines, such was their perceived dismal performance. At the time the country's wine industry was churning out dross. Although some of the vines were culled, sense prevailed, and today many venerable vines produce beautiful, intense wines.
The simple answer to Robson's query was no. My experience of Argentine Malbec was confined to the young ones, albeit really impressive wines from the likes of the Catena winery. Would I like to taste a 1977 Malbec, the end of a case? I thought my positive answer got lost in the noise of the table, but a couple of days later a bottle arrived. It hardly looked distinguished, its label torn and tattered, but the key information was there: it was Weinert Malbec 1977. The back of the bottle had more detail. This was a "great fine red wine". It was "a perfect balance of colour, scent, tannins, body and fragrances. The years, 19 in French oak cask and one in bottle in the appropriate climate in the Bodega Weinert's cave, have maintained the wines in perfect harmony . . . and each one of them is the highest expression of an art which makes each drop of this wine a great adventure."
This was intriguing, 19 years in cask and a spiel so lavish that the wine had to be amazing or amazingly bad. Further investigation revealed that the 1977 was not just another vintage from the Mendoza winery run by Bernardo Weinert, an iconoclastic Brazilian of German origin, but a vintage that has gone down in wine-enthusiast lore.
Decanted, it showed remarkable density of deep violet colour, with only the transparent terracotta rim hinting at its age. On the nose there were beguiling sweet raisins with notes of cinnamon and clove. On the palate it was incredibly smooth and light, with intense raisiny fruit, a sense of the 14 per cent alcohol, but wonderfully balanced. There was a velvet firmness, a harmony. It may have shed the brashness and energy of youth, but it had gained something more refined and profound. It was wonderful.
That memorable encounter set me on the trail of other Malbecs - great companions to red meat. Top of the list was Bodegas Catena Zapata, a brilliantly consistent operation with wines at all prices. Other producers worth seeking out include Norton (available from O'Briens), Finca La Linda and Luigi Bosca (both from Searsons). Prices begin at under €10. Cheap Malbec is a barbecue winner; high-end bottles can be extraordinary.