This seriously good new restaurant gets a near perfect score from our food critic

A revamped Dublin city centre space has smart, delicious cooking that’s true to its roots

Library St in Dublin 2. Photographs: Naoise Culhane

Library St in Dublin 2. Photographs: Naoise Culhane

I can only imagine the silent screams of the sous chef who unrolled his sharp, shiny knives in the compact kitchen of Kevin Burke’s new Library St restaurant, in Dublin 2, only to discover that he had drawn the chicken-wing-deboning short straw.

Clearly there’s a knife-wielding ninja in that kitchen who, with the dexterity of a surgeon and the patience of a saint, fills the brined skins with a chanterelle-enriched chicken mousse before they are steamed, coated in panko breadcrumbs, and deep-fried, KFC style.

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