This Italian does the best early bird in Dublin

Authentic cuisine of the bottom half of Italy comes to Stoneybatter

Veronica is making pasta at the counter in Grano in Stoneybatter, Dublin. She’s using the flat of her palms to roll lengths of dough around a pliable stalk that looks like a stick of dried spaghetti.

It’s a baton that’s been passed from the matriarch at the heart of this place to the rest of the young crew. The tubes of fileja pasta are fatter in the middle and tapering at the ends. The hand-made food will be boiled and served to a waiting room of happy eaters. 

Up until two days ago Roberto Mungo’s mother, Roma, was making the pasta in this small restaurant. She arrived a couple of months ago to oversee the setting-up of her son’s new venture.

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