Review: A secret vegan restaurant for real food lovers

The luxury is all on the plate, by a chef not only making it vegan but also making it great

Is this restaurant for me? It’s a question they’ve been asking on Sporkful, a great American food podcast. How do restaurants send out coded signals about the kind of people they want to attract and whether a restaurant can be for everyone? Chef Amanda Cohen of New York restaurant Dirt Candy nailed the two things restaurants do to say women aren’t welcome. The first is when the waiter hands the wine list to her husband. He knows nothing about wine. So that’s not just sexist it’s also stupid. The second is when the female wait staff are dressed differently to their male counterparts, in uniforms designed to be alluring. 

I thought about it in a Dublin hotel recently, for a meeting with two people, when our coffee came with a side order of assumption. A black coffee and two cappuccinos arrived with the (manlier?) cup put down in front of the man, and the frothy cups given to us ladies. Except the black coffee was mine. 

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