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Good gastropubs are rare in Ireland – the Brown Bear is in a class of its own

FEW RESTAURANTS offer the gastropub experience, or as close an approximation of it as you’ll find in Ireland, as well as the Brown Bear. With its traditional bar fixtures and fittings that suggest pints rather than platefuls, and its sophisticated menu offering high-end, well-presented dishes, this is an operation that is getting it right.

The gastropub phenomenon seems to be more of a success in England. From the trailblazing Stagg Inn in Herefordshire – the first pub to be awarded a Michelin star – to the rural haven in Fulham that is the Harwood Arms, the Brits seem to have it licked when combining pubs with gastronomy. We’ve still a long way to go.

By the time you park up behind the somewhat unfinished building and walk through the bar into the main restaurant and take a seat, something tells you that the Brown Bear is not your typical restaurant.

The man behind the stove, Fred Cordonnier, has a thoroughbred pedigree. The reserved Frenchman is well known for his complex flavour combinations, and has earned his stripes while cheffing at Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud and the Clarence Hotel’s Tea Room.

Efficient hosts led us to a lovely table in the main front window. The view is not anything to gush about, yet the early evening twilight made it a pleasant nook in which to dine – softly lit and airy.

The menu is concise: five starters, six main courses and half a dozen desserts. The most expensive item is the 8oz fillet of beef, with croquette of oxtail and foie gras, girolles mushrooms, creamed potato and red wine jus, at €27. The least expensive item is the €5 pistachio cake with poached apricot and cherries, fresh almond and pistachio ice cream. For thrifty souls, a “seasonal inspirational menu” offers three top-quality courses for €28.

We began with warm green asparagus, soft-boiled pheasant egg, Parma ham, pea sorbet and morel dressing (€9.50), with flavours both pure and complex. Warm Castletownbere lobster tail (€11.50) was accompanied by broccoli purée, prawn risotto fritter and prawn aioli, which were perfect complements.

Main courses included roasted Texel lamb (supplied by Myles Doyle in Dunlavin, Co Wicklow) with crispy sweetbreads and tongue, minted peas, black olive, an airy light goat’s cheese tart and lamb jus (€22). This is not for the faint-hearted; bold, brash, intense flavours made this a dish to savour slowly. Top marks.

My companion’s pan-fried wild seabass fillet (€22) was meaty, sea-fresh and a rare treat in a world of menus with flabby aquacultured fillets. This was complemented by roasted globe artichoke, garden peas, baby artichoke and a sweet wine sauce. There’s a corker of a wine list here too, with options by the glass, carafe and full bottle, most reasonably priced. We opted for an excellent Sancerre from Domaine Henry Natter 2007 (€44).

Desserts are very much one-star Michelin quality and reasonably priced. Our star sweet was a classic peach melba (€7) served in a fist-sized tumbler that produced smiles and nostalgic musings. The other dessert was almost as good: Sallins strawberries with pink grapefruit, iced parfait and balsamic vanilla ice cream (€6.50).

Dinner for two with wine and coffees came to €126.70.

ehiggins@irishtimes.com

BROWN BEAR

Two Mile House, Naas, Co Kildare, 045-883561

Coffee:Lavazza, sanely priced, cool beans

Wheelchair access:Yes

Facilities:Brand new

Music:A little shouty from the bar proper next door