Very good food in an exciting Dublin 8 restaurant

This kitchen has a reputation for letting chefs blossom and, once again, it pays off

 Clanbrassil House on Clanbrassil Street upper, Dublin. Photograph:Nick Bradshaw

Clanbrassil House on Clanbrassil Street upper, Dublin. Photograph:Nick Bradshaw

The last time I was in Clanbrassil House, it was just before lockdown. It was a dinner with Austrian winemaker Dorli Muhr, and, sitting on stools at a high table, a group of us worked our way through a menu that included Parmesan agnolotti, 80-day whiskey aged cote de boeuf with hash brown chips, and a technically perfect tart tatin.

Like many restaurants around the country, Clanbrassil House has re-emerged with quite a few changes. The high tables and stools are gone, and so too is the former chef, Gráinne O’Keefe, who left to open Mae restaurant in Ballsbridge, taking that tart tatin with her.

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