The food in Richard Corrigan’s exclusive Irish hotel is good, but...

If you don’t like fish, get your coat. If you’re vegetarian, mention it in advance

The €85, four-course dinner menu at Virginia Park Lodge is a no-choice menu, drawn from what is seasonal, local and grown on the estate.

The €85, four-course dinner menu at Virginia Park Lodge is a no-choice menu, drawn from what is seasonal, local and grown on the estate.

Wander into the Marquis room at Virginia Park Lodge, and you immediately wish the man himself was at home. There is a turntable, speakers and vinyl; a cabinet filled with whiskey, mescal and Calvados; and cookery books piled up on a side table – Plenty, Bocca di Lupo and his own tome, The Clatter of Forks and Spoons.

I interviewed Richard Corrigan in 2014, a few months after he snapped up the 100-acre Virginia Park Lodge estate for €1.2 million. He was busy ploughing considerably more into the restoration of its 18th-century hunting lodge. Since then, it has primarily been used as a wedding venue. Quite spectacular, I have heard. Especially when the beautiful couple tick the Corrigan-does-the-cooking box. But that is the exception. There was never an expectation that he would be cooking here, nor is he, when we arrive for dinner last Friday, just one day after they reopened.

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