Sova food vegan butcher review: A visit to a vegan butcher. Yes, seriously

Has a Dublin neighbourhood eaten itself and is now entirely made of parody and artisan cheese? No, this little restaurant provides generosity and style in intriguing vegan meals

Sova Food Vegan Butcher: this is not Vegan Butcher is not a joke, it’s an  intriguing new idea. Photograph: Dave Meehan

Sova Food Vegan Butcher: this is not Vegan Butcher is not a joke, it’s an intriguing new idea. Photograph: Dave Meehan

It read like a joke on Twitter. Someone has opened a vegan butcher’s in Dublin 8. The neighbourhood has eaten itself and is now entirely made of parody and artisan cheese. But the Vegan Butcher is not a joke, it’s a small restaurant on Pleasants Street where I’m bringing three other meat eaters to try out what looks like an intriguing new idea. 

Barto Sova came to live in Ireland from Poland 13 years ago. He was a long-time vegetarian and became a vegan three years ago. In 2013 he started running vegan pop-ups and a market stall. That evolved into a month-long pop up in Rathmines. Then last month he opened Sova Food Vegan Butcher in a former shop on Pleasants Street. 

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