Review: Ireland’s best fish and chip shop, by a country mile
This feels like a world-class tapas bar plucked from the narrow streets of San Sebastián’s old town
The Fish and Chip Shop: Book now. Book often.
We are sitting at a white marble counter smooth as the inside of an oyster shell. The menu is an A5 piece of sand-coloured cardboard and we pick our way through it like shell collectors turning things over and marvelling at their ordinary loveliness. There will be nodding and smiling over the next couple of hours, even when the building alarm goes off. “No that’s my phone. It’s just a bit aggressive,” someone jokes as the wail presses in on our ears. It’s all okay. We are in our happy place. Even the bloke with the voice like a buzz saw who’s (over)sharing our counter is not coming close to kicking a dent in the bliss.
This is an outpost of one of my favourite restaurants in Dublin. We’re in the Fish Shop’s sister restaurant on Benburb Street, the Fish and Chip Shop. There are fish and chips in this bare high room. But there’s a lot more. It’s my second visit and the menu has expanded. Just a bit, and in just the right direction.