Review: Brilliant, creative food in a casual, friendly place

No one’s been shouting from rooftops about this wine bar game-changer. Till now

The goddesses are smiling on me. There’s been running over sun-warmed grass in the Phoenix Park, coffee in Kennedy’s in Phibsborough, then a swim in Seapoint. Heading away from the water with the 11-year-old, we talked about going in search of a cone. And there at the top of the steps sat an ice cream van. With no queue. Dublin, you darling. 

And now here’s the menu equivalent of a wish-conjured ice cream van: intriguing ideas with stellar ingredients, the priciest at €15. There’s a giddiness in the busy room. No one’s been shouting from rooftops about this wine bar game-changer but that is about to change. 

It’s chef Keith Coleman’s first weekend in the new kitchen in Green Man Wines in Terenure. I got a tip off from Kevin Byrne, who runs nearby Mayfield. The food’s amazing, he said, emailing a photograph that had me reaching for a fake name and the phone.

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