Meal box review: A triumph – the best restaurant meal kit yet

This Michelin cook-along is not cheap, but the well-thought-out courses flow beautifully

Keelan Higgs, head chef and joint owner of Michelin-starred Variety Jones, with his fantastic cook-along kit. Photograph: Tom Honan

Keelan Higgs, head chef and joint owner of Michelin-starred Variety Jones, with his fantastic cook-along kit. Photograph: Tom Honan

I know that I am in an absolute minority when I say that reading the news that Ferran Adrià­ will be opening a museum later this year, ­La Bulligrafía, just outside Barcelona, had my heart skipping a little molecular beat. It will of course be an experience like no other. And a commitment. Once you’ve nabbed a ticket, a 50-minute documentary is prescribed viewing before setting a foot inside the place.

So, when a link to video files lands in my inbox from Variety Jones – a little bit of homework before the meal kit is delivered – I think, here we go again. Without a chef’s video, clearly, there is no Michelin meal kit. Oh, those things we miss so much about restaurants, the earnest words of a young chef, personally delivering a morsel on a roughly hewn plate, the last gasp of steam escaping from the food and the diner, as the monologue about every symbiotic component ensues.

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