‘I will be astonished if this restaurant doesn’t land a Michelin star next year’

It has thrilling food, pitch perfect service and a truly beautiful room

Lignum: Thrilling food, a load of skill, pitch perfect service and a truly beautiful room. Photograph: Julia Dunin Photography

Lignum: Thrilling food, a load of skill, pitch perfect service and a truly beautiful room. Photograph: Julia Dunin Photography

My first reaction when walking through the heavy black door to Lignum in Galway is this: here is intention laid bare. It’s a fully-formed three Michelin star build, ambition that you can see from space.

A glass-fronted pantry where butchered beasts age, wild ferments burp and wine is racked high, reinforces this impression. And then a glimpse of the kitchen, where most of the cooking is done with wood embers on three Argentinian grills.

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