Hatch & Sons: Down the Hatch
Hatch & Sons
Those who can do and those who can’t write about it. It’s an old insult about teachers you could lob at critics and food writers. So what happens when some food writers open a restaurant in a museum run by a guy who used to write about restaurants? Hugo Arnold, Domini Kemp and her sister Peaches are behind Hatch and Sons in the basement of Trevor White’s Little Museum of Dublin on Stephen’s Green.
I’m more comfortable eating the food of people I’ve never met. If an author gushes about a stablemate’s novel can you take the opinion seriously? So let’s get that all on the table and move on. I’m here to find out if words can translate into something good to eat.
The first thing that hits you in the eye is the original huge hearth in this handsome basement, where a cook must have sweated over a coal-fired range to feed the occupants above. The granite back stairs, for the servants to ferry the food to the dining rooms, are still there. The walls have been painted in a silvery grey with a darker grey on the painted timber counters. One of these has a large timber top, and it’s crammed with treats, jams, sweets in jars and impulse down-with-January buys you can grab while you wait to pay the bill.