This dense and creamy dairy cake is indeed made using milk in three different forms: whole, evaporated and condensed. It does take a fair bit of time, but evaporated and condensed milk are very simple to make. It is important to sift the flour at least three times and keep all ingredients really airy throughout the process. If you have kids, this is fun to make with them as it involves poking holes in the cake with a toothpick, which children have loads of fun doing.

Method: Preheat the oven to 175 degrees Celsius/gas 4. Butter and flour bottoms and sides of two eight-inch cake pans; set aside.

Whisk together the flour, baking powder and cinnamon in a large bowl. In another bowl, beat the egg whites with an electric mixer until stiff peaks form, 7 to 8 minutes. Gradually beat in the sugar. Add the egg yolks, one at a time, beating to blend between additions. Beat in 2 teaspoons of the vanilla. Add the flour mixture in three additions, alternating with the milk in two additions (you begin and end with the flour mixture). Pour the batter into the pans; smooth the top.

Bake for 25 minutes. Reduce the temperature to 165 degrees/gas 3, and continue baking until the cake is golden brown and the middle springs back when pressed, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from the oven, and let the cake cool in the pans for 15 minutes. Invert onto a wire rack set inside a rimmed baking sheet.

Whisk together the remaining half teaspoon vanilla, evaporated milk, 1 cup of the heavy cream, sweetened condensed milk, and rum in a medium bowl. Poke holes all over the top of the cake with a skewer. Slowly drizzle half of the sauce over the cake, letting the liquid soak in before adding more. Let sit for 10 minutes.

Invert a plate on top of each cake. Lift the rack and gently invert the cake on to the plate. Drizzle the remaining sauce, including any liquid collected in the baking sheet, over the cake. Whip the remaining cream and frost the stacked cakes with it.

Scullery Notes: Icing with whipped cream is optional. It is excellent either way.

For the evaporated milk: In a heavy-bottom pot, bring the milk to a boil over medium heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer gently for about 2 hours, until the volume is reduced by 60 per cent. The milk should barely simmer and never bubble at any point. Stir every 15 minutes or so to keep the milk from burning on the bottom. Remove the pot from the heat and let it cool. The milk will thicken further after it cools. Pour it into a jar and store in the refrigerator. Allow it to come to room temperature before using.

Scullery Notes: Evaporated milk will keep in the refrigerator for two weeks or more.

For the condensed milk: In a heavy-bottom pot, bring the milk and sugar to a boil over medium heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer gently for about 2 hours, until the volume is reduced by half. The mixture should barely simmer and never bubble at any point. Stir every 15 minutes or so to keep the milk from burning on the bottom.

After 2 hours, stir in the butter (if using). Remove from the heat and let cool. The mixture will thicken further after it cools. Pour it into a jar and store in the refrigerator. Allow it to come to room temperature before using.

Scullery Notes: The no-butter version of this milk is perfect for making Vietnamese iced coffee. It will keep in the refrigerator for two weeks or more.