Mamó, Howth: A lovely new spot in the Dublin seaside village

Restaurant review: Outside are tables and blankets for outdoor lunch. Inside, the aroma of buttery fish

Mamó restuarant Howth.Photograph: Aidan Crawley/The Irish Times

Mamó restuarant Howth.Photograph: Aidan Crawley/The Irish Times

Hands up who wants to be called granny. Not the woman whose son is sitting next to us at the counter in Howth’s newest restaurant, he tells one of its owners, Jess D’Arcy. His mother is in no rush to relinquish herself to notions of cardigans and Complan or, heaven forbid, glamorous granny. 

Until now I’ve been pronouncing the name of this restaurant all wrong. Maymo, I’ve been saying, thinking Norse instead of north Dublin. Mamó is the Irish pet word for grandmother. It’s Ma, like Baa, big mother, two comfort syllables that murmur in the back of the mouth, where all the best words start. 

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