Eat, pray, eat in Vicenza

TRAVEL CITY BREAK:Palladian architecture and excellent food are just two of the attractions of the historic Italian city of Vicenza – it's also a great base to explore Venice, Padua and Verona, writes ALEX MEEHAN

LOCATED IN THE heart of the Veneto region in north east Italy, Vicenza is best known as the birthplace of 16th-century architect Andrea Palladio. With its use of simple lines, tall columns and symmetrical proportions, Palladio’s style was heavily influenced by the architecture of ancient Rome.

Most Dubliners are familiar with this style of building, even if they don’t know it – the Custom Houses, the Rotunda Hospital and the Bank of Ireland on College Green are all Palladian in style. Probably the most famous building in this style is the White House in Washington, designed by Irishman James Hoban.

Listed as a world heritage site by Unesco in 1994, Vicenza is home to 23 buildings designed by Palladio, including the famous Teatro Olimpico in the city centre and the Villa Capra La Rotonda just outside.

In addition to its architectural offerings, the town makes a great base from which to explore the Veneto region – Venice, Padua and Verona are all easily accessible by rail for daytrips, as are Lake Garda in the west and Treviso in the east. Those planning to spend time in the notoriously expensive city of Venice could do a lot worse than base themselves here. The cost of accommodation and eating out is significantly cheaper. The train costs about €10 return per person and it takes an hour and 15 minutes to get to the city.

As walking towns go, Vicenza has a lot to recommend it. The heart of the town is the Piazza dei Signori, a large paved square lined by coffee shops, restaurants and bars, and dominated by the massive Basilica Palladiana and its 82-metre clock tower.

An after-dinner stroll through the narrow winding medieval streets of this part of town is a local custom, and during the day it’s a delightful place to sit out with a coffee or a beer and watch the world go by.

A great place to start exploring would be at Soraru Virgilio, a picturesque confectioners on the square that sells local sweets and cakes that can be enjoyed standing at the counter with an espresso.

The Teatro Olimpico is a must see. The oldest enclosed theatre in Europe, it was constructed in 1580 and was the last project Palladio worked on, although he didn’t live to see it completed. It’s still in use today, and has some interesting original features including an authentic trompe l’oeil stage set – the oldest surviving anywhere – which gives the appearance of long streets receding into the distance.

It costs €8 admission during the day to visit the theatre, which has some historical exhibits and an entertaining light and music show that takes place in the main auditorium and shows off the features of the stage set.

The Villa Capra is the most famous of Palladio’s works, built in 1570 and located just outside Vicenza. Inspired by the Pantheon in Rome, the villa was built for Bishop Paolo Almerico and is open to the public on Wednesdays and Saturdays, except during winter months, while the grounds are open every day. Admission costs €10 and €5 respectively.

Further out from town there are a good assortment of villas open to the public. It’s a good idea to visit the tourist office in the Piazza dei Signori to pick up maps and check opening times before you set off, as many villas have limited visiting hours. Hiring a car makes things much easier, but it is possible to arrange interesting day trips by bus.

When it comes to eating out, Italy has one of the world’s great dining cultures, and the Veneto region in particular is a treasure trove of interesting foods and affordable wines.

Eating is a serious business pretty much anywhere in Italy, with most socialising happening across a dinner table. But if you’re heading out for a meal, it’s best to make sure you’re hungry.

We pitched up in Il Combattente in Gambugliano, a small hillside village outside Vicenza known for the excellence of its produce. It’s an atmospheric, small restaurant specialising in rustic and simple local dishes, but for Irish tourists used to the kind of sanitised Italian-style food typically served here, it’s a revelation. A typical weekend evening meal here starts with fresh bread and local extra virgin olive oil on the table, while carafes of local table wine arrive and seem to stay magically refilled all evening.

The primi arrive – wild porcini risotto is followed by pasta served with pesto, then pasta served with local sausage and cavelo nero cabbage, then pasta with a meat ragu made from veal, beef and pork, then gnocchi with a Gorgonzola and walnut sauce.

After a 20-minute break or so, it’s time for the house speciality – beef, pork, veal and chicken grilled over wood from the area, and served with big slabs of grilled polenta. After this comes sorbetto, a local milkshake-style drink made with vodka and ice-cream, and then home-made tiramisu.

It’s the kind of meal memories are made of, and the most astonishing thing about it isn’t just the quality of the produce or the depth and complexity of the flavours, but the price – all of this, including wine and coffee costs just €18 per person.

The reason it’s so cheap is that we’re way out in the countryside and not in town. The restaurant is a family-owned business that’s been here for a long time and all the produce used comes from the locality. This is a part of the world that’s still strongly connected to the land surrounding it, and that’s reflected in the quality of food on offer not just in high-end restaurants but in casual pizzeria, trattoria and family-run restaurants in every town and village in the region.

Vicenza where to

...STAY

Il Combattente, Via Roma, 12/1 26050 Gambugliano, 0039-348-7127565, ilcombattente.it. Located about a 20-minute drive outside Vicenza, nestled in the hills in the Veneto countryside, Il Combattente is a basic but cosy family-run B&B with only three rooms located beside a fantastic rustic restaurant. A night here during low season costs from around €20 per person.

Continental Hotel, Viale G.G. Trissino, 89, 36100 Vicenza, 0039-0444-505476, continental-hotel.it. The Continental isn't going to win any prizes for innovative architecture or cutting-edge interior design, but it delivers a dependable experience in a hotel market which can be hit and miss. Prices start at €70 per night in low season.

G Boutique Hotel, Via A. Giuriolo 10, 36100 Vicenza, 0039 -0444-326458, gboutiquehotel.com. Located in the middle of old Vicenza and an easy walk from pretty much anywhere in the centre of the town, the G Boutique Hotel is a good choice for anyone looking for a bit of luxury but not the uniformity that goes with staying in a chain hotel. Prices range from €100 to €600 a night for a suite, depending on season.

EAT

Il Combattente, Via Roma, 12/1 26050 Gambugliano, 0039-348-7127565, ilcombattente.it For an authentic taste of Italy, a night at Il Combattente is a must - particularly given the value on offer. A set menu consisting of four primi courses, a giant secondi course and two dessert courses with wine and coffee costs just €18. Well worth a trip.

Ristorante Pizzeria Ai Cappuccini, V. Cappuccini 1, Thiene, Vicenza, 0039-0445 371153, ristorantepizzeriaaicappuccini.it. Specialising in top quality beef, veal and horse dishes, along with seafood and regional specialities such as bigoli pasta with duck ragu and grilled steak Florentine-style.

HOW TO GET THERE

Nearest airports are Verona and Treviso. Aer Lingus's new service from Dublin to Verona operates on Wednesday and Saturday. Ryanair's new service operates on Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday. Treviso airport is also nearby and has a Ryanair service on Monday, Wednesday and Friday. Prices with both carriers are from around €50 each way. Best value flights are midweek.