Groovy Grüner Veltliner

An Austrian speciality that's one of the great all-purpose wines is gaining in popularity . . . but there's not a lot of it available, writes JOHN WILSON

GRÜNER VELTLINER, something of an Austrian speciality, is one of the great all-purpose wines. It is ideal with a wide variety of foods, but equally happy to be supped on its own on a sunny evening. It comes in a variety of styles, but is usually fresh and crisp, yet never nerve-tinglingly acidic. It is rarely aged in new oak, so you get a lovely expression of pure fruit, and the best examples have just the right amount of those fruits, never over-whelming, but succulent and mouth-filling.

Lastly, it is very dependable. I am not sure if this is down to the variety or a reflection of the high standard of Austrian wine-making, but just about every bottle of Grüner Veltliner is drinkable if not charming. Sepp Moser of Grüner Veltliner specialist Laurenz V reckons the only food you should avoid with Grüner Veltliner is goulash. I wouldn’t go that far, but it certainly is great with fish, shellfish and white meats, and seems to be able to partner lightly spicy foods or dishes with a touch of sweetness without too much difficulty. I have drunk it alongside roast pork and light charcuterie without a problem, but it really comes into its own with chicken or something fishy.

Grüner Veltliner has two distinct disadvantages when it comes to marketing; it is grown virtually exclusively in Austria, a country that produces small quantities of wine, so you don’t see much of it around. There is strong domestic demand and the 2010 vintage was very small, so prices have risen further. However, the wines are of a very high quality, and still offer value for money.

Outside Austria, growers in Australia, New Zealand and even France and Argentina are planting a few vines.

Depending on where it is grown, Grüner Veltliner can range from fresh and citrus in style up to some powerful wines rich in ginger and peach fruits. Those from the Wachau tend to fall into the latter category, particularly if they carry the smaragd designation. But I find the easiest way to work out the relative richness is to take a look at the alcohol levels; those at 12 or 12.5 per cent will have lighter zippier fruit; once you reach 13 or 13.5 per cent, it will be a bigger broader more mouth-filling wine.

The Moser family has been making wine in Austria for 400 years. They were once the largest producer in Austria, but these days Sepp Moser concentrates on four different styles of Grüner Veltliner all under the Laurenz V label, named Charming, Friendly, Sunny and the Silver Bullet. His idea is to simplify things, taking away all of the regional and single-vineyard names that clutter up the standard wine label.

To me, the danger is that he may have made it more complicated, as he has now added the names of his daughters on several, but then I am used to reading the traditional labels. It does allow him to blend across different regions, Australian-style, in order to create specific styles. The wines are very good and well worth trying out.

Grüner Veltliner is ready to drink on release, but does age wonderfully. On a recent visit to Dublin, Moser showed several wines from the 2005 and 2006 vintages, both of which were drinking beautifully, alongside some other wines dating from 1980 and 1983, which were still very much alive. I have tasted wines dating back to the 1950s in Domäne Wachau that also performed very well.

Bottles of the week

Grüner Veltliner 2010, Schloss Gobelsburg, 12.5%, €12.95Owned by the Cistercians, but run by Michael Moosbrugger, this estate has always produced very good wines, but in recent years seems to be improving even further. The top end wines are excellent, and really show the different terroirs of the various vineyards. This is a classic example of Kamptal Grüner Veltliner, fresh and racy with delicious pear fruits and punches way above its weight. Stockists: Marlay Wine Shop, Rathfarnham; Donnybrook Fair, Dublin 4; Redmond's, Ranelagh, Dublin 6; Bin No 9, Clonskeagh; 64 Wine, Glasthule; Martin's, Fairview; McHugh's Kilbarrack and Malahide Road; Red Island Wine Co, Skerries; Liston's, Camden Street, Dublin 2; On the Grapevine, Dalkey; Gibney's, Malahide; Probus Wines, Fenian Street, Dublin 2; Probus Wines, Oughterard, Galway

Friendly Grüner Veltliner, Laurenz V 2010, 13%, €13.99Based on a blend of equal quantities of Grüner Veltliner from Kamptal (for aroma) and Kremstal (for finesse) this is a very stylish, fresh, zippy wine with lively lemon zest alongside some peachy fruits. Stockists: The Laurels, Clondalkin; Holland's, Bray; Cellarmaster, Stillorgan Industrial Estate; Greenacres, Wexford; Cellars, Walkinstown; Donnybrook Fair, Dublin 4

Grüner Veltliner Federspiel 2010 Domäne Wachau, 12%, €16.50This is from the Wachau region but at the lighter side end of the scale, with crisp, clean, mouth-watering lemon and pear fruits, finishing bone dry. Try it with seafood. Stockists: Daly's, Boyle; The Vintry, Rathgar; Next Door, Racefield, Raheen; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Nectar Wine, Sandyford; The Parting Glass, Enniskerry.

Grüner Veltliner Kamptal Reserve Käferberg 2009, Rabel, 13%, €19.99The biggest of all of the wines here. Delicious rich, exotic, almost opulent pineapple and luscious peach fruits with good intensity and a long, dry finish. I would try this with lightly spiced or herby prawns or chicken. Stockist: O'Briens

Two under €10

Castelmaure Corbières Blanc 2010, 14%, €9.85I'm not sure of the grape varieties used, but this has the richness and body associated with the traditional southern grape varieties. Quite big and powerful, with nicely textured peach and nectarine fruits, good acidity and a very decent, dry finish. I would keep it for richer fish dishes or white meats. Great value. Stockist: Terroirs, Donnybrook

Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Domaine CaudeVal, Pays d'Oc IGP, 12.5%, €7.99Light, fresh and crisp with pleasant green fruits, this is a keenly priced easy-drinking Sauvignon that will provide perfect everyday summer drinking without hurting the wallet. Stockist: Molloy's Liquor Stores

Beer of the week

Harrington's Wobbly Boot Porter Ale, New Zealand, 5%, €2.50 for a 330ml bottleRelatively full-bodied with a distinctive milk chocolate flavour and lightly toasty maltiness. The mild hops give it a smooth palate and rounded finish. Stockists: Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Hole in the Wall, Dublin 7; Redmonds, Ranelagh; O'Donovan's, Cork; Martin's, Fairview; Mulligan's, Parkgate Street; Deveney's, Rathmines and Dundrum; also coming shortly to some branches of Dunnes Stores