Bastible: There’s a new level of cooking in town
These chefs are a marriage made in a particularly delicious corner of heaven
Bastible: a beautifully memorable food experience.
I’m not sure how Cúán Greene cultures his butter. Perhaps the chef plays New Yorker podcasts to the cream as it is churned to a glistening slick so pale it is the colour of margarine. But holy cow it’s good, a statement of intent for what’s to follow. Sit up straight: there’s a new level of cooking in town, a homecoming that you’re going to want to taste.
We’ve been here before. My fangirl crush on Bastible caused a stampede when it first opened back in 2015. The chef Barry Fitzgerald had returned from London, started Etto and then set up Bastible, his own restaurant on Dublin’s Leonard’s Corner.
Greene was graduating with a culinary arts degree (and the David Gumbleton talent award) the year Bastible opened. He began a supper club with his fellow graduate Harry Colley and then went to work in Copenhagen. He was in the kitchen at Geranium when it was elevated to three Michelin stars, then headhunted to Noma and was part of the Noma Mexico team, cooking over fire in the Tulum jungle on the food adventure of a life time.