Lights, action: vintage Rocha in black and white

LONDON FASHION WEEK:  DESPITE INDICATIONS of a Seventies revival in fashion next spring (flared trousers, kaftans, big hair), John Rocha remained steadfast to his fundamentally monochrome form yesterday with a collection inspired by the Victorian Grand Tour and the images of Lartigue, but with a rakish modern edge.

This London fashion week not only marks his 25th year at the event, but also his daughter Simone's fashion debut tomorrow with her first collection. She's just one of a number of young, up-and-coming designers in the UK getting strong industry support and commercial backing.

What was new in Rocha's collection was the introduction of corsetry and vintage bias cutting to his familiar handwork and embroidery details. The corsetry in playsuits or in tailored jackets was restrained and elegant rather than raunchy and the see-through effect of the fitted and flared crochet dresses playful and sweet. A sweeping black bustier dress was dressed down under a long open-back cardigan; coats had stiff, puckered backs while a narrow cropped pants suit looked sharp and modern.

Notable throughout the collection were the flamboyant tulle and silk floppy hats made by the designer himself.

At Topshop's Unique show in the spooky environment of the abandoned Eurostar Terminal at Waterloo, the only trains present were those that billowed from airy chiffon kaftans, silk jumpsuits and bell sleeved blouses. If fashion in hard times escapes into fantasy, this was hardcore glam rock with all the disco details: the cropped flared trousers, multicoloured sparkle jeans and crystal-buttoned jackets worn with sky high perspex platforms and huge crimped candyfloss hair.

The exuberance and energy in that show was also evident in that of Scottish designer Louise Gray, making her solo catwalk debut. Known for her daring use of colour and pattern, this was a madcap mix of apron-style dresses with jewelled draping, jackets decorated with Indian mirror work and skirts studded with bottle tops, a patchwork approach to dress that worked in a light-hearted, zany way.

Two other collections from women designers that impressed were those of Betty Jackson and Margaret Howell. Jackson reworked ideas drawn from the uniform of the women's land army of the 1940s for a line-up of earthy-coloured tunics, khaki skirts and tent dresses. Howell's languid slacks, crisp white cotton shirts and pinafores had that casual understated ease that has been her perennial hallmark.